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#61
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In article ,
Roderick Stewart wrote: On Fri, 11 Oct 2013 16:32:01 +0100, "Max Demian" wrote: What I want to know is, what *exactly* have they done to car batteries so that they don't need to be topped up any more. I know that they are supposed to use a different lead alloy for the electrodes, which supposedly reduces the amount of 'gassing' (conversion of water to hydrogen and oxygen by electrolysis) during charging, but what about loss by evaporation? Probably the same as anything else these days that is regarded as "maintenance free". You just throw it away before it needs any. Not so - I've just replaced an 11 year old battery which never had any attention. Some years ago that would have been unthinkable. -- *If you remember the '60s, you weren't really there Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
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#62
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Roderick Stewart wrote:
If I had found that our nominal 15Ah batteries which had only tested at about 9.5Ah on the 4.8A test load gave something like the full 15Ah at the lower test current, I'd still have been disappointed but I'd have understood, but it was nowhere near, maybe about 0.5Ah to 1Ah higher at the most. I was just wondering how they'd fare at 150mA, which would be the 100 hour rate. From what you've said, it doesn't sound like they'd manage 15Ah even then, which strongly suggests the claimed capacity is simply bogus. I'd have thought a 10-12 hour discharge time to cover a working day was reasonable though; it's no more than we expect from our computers and phones. What are these small lead acid cells intended for, anyway? I'm not talking about 15Ah motorcycle batteries, which are more like car batteries in being designed for high starting currents. Rod was describing those lead acid batteries you can buy from Maplin and the like. Does anyone know of a real-world application for them? Is a 10-12 hour discharge time realistic? I personally know of only one such application: as the standby supply for an industrial clock system. The mean current when operating the clocks was well below 150mA, so a 0.01C (150mA) discharge rate would be relevant. We also used them to power PMBXs, but I've no idea what kind of run time they were expected to manage. The bigger PABXs used wet batteries which is not what Rod was talking about. According to this, sealed lead acid batteries are normally quoted at the 20 hour rate: One battery that does not perform well at a 1C discharge rate is the SLA. To obtain a practical capacity reading, manufacturers commonly rate these batteries at 0.05C or 20 hour discharge. Even at this slow discharge rate, it is often difficult to attain 100 percent capacity. By discharging the SLA at a more practical 5h discharge (0.2C), the capacity readings are correspondingly lower. To compensate for the different readings at various discharge currents, manufacturers offer a capacity offset. Applying the capacity offset does not improve battery performance; it merely adjusts the capacity calculation if discharged at a higher or lower C-rate than specified. The battery manufacturer determines the amount of capacity offset recommended for a given battery type. See http://www.buchmann.ca/chap5-page1.asp for the full article. -- SteveT |
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#63
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In article ,
Steve Thackery wrote: Roderick Stewart wrote: If I had found that our nominal 15Ah batteries which had only tested at about 9.5Ah on the 4.8A test load gave something like the full 15Ah at the lower test current, I'd still have been disappointed but I'd have understood, but it was nowhere near, maybe about 0.5Ah to 1Ah higher at the most. I was just wondering how they'd fare at 150mA, which would be the 100 hour rate. From what you've said, it doesn't sound like they'd manage 15Ah even then, which strongly suggests the claimed capacity is simply bogus. I'd have thought a 10-12 hour discharge time to cover a working day was reasonable though; it's no more than we expect from our computers and phones. What are these small lead acid cells intended for, anyway? I'm not talking about 15Ah motorcycle batteries, which are more like car batteries in being designed for high starting currents. Rod was describing those lead acid batteries you can buy from Maplin and the like. Does anyone know of a real-world application for them? Is a 10-12 hour discharge time realistic? Security alarms often use smallish lead acid batteries -- From KT24 Using a RISC OS computer running v5.18 |
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#64
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"Peter Duncanson" wrote in message
... On Fri, 11 Oct 2013 16:32:01 +0100, "Max Demian" wrote: "Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message ... Sealed lead acid is the correct name. Although it has been hijacked by some for use with semi-sealed wet types. Which still have a means of filling concealed beneath a sticker or whatever. What I want to know is, what *exactly* have they done to car batteries so that they don't need to be topped up any more. I know that they are supposed to use a different lead alloy for the electrodes, which supposedly reduces the amount of 'gassing' (conversion of water to hydrogen and oxygen by electrolysis) during charging, but what about loss by evaporation? Try this article for a start: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Car_battery Lead-acid batteries for automotive use are made with slightly different construction techniques, depending on the application of the battery. The "flooded cell" type, indicating liquid electrolyte, is typically inexpensive and long-lasting, but requires more maintenance and can spill or leak. Some flooded batteries have removable caps that allow for the electrolyte to be tested and maintained. More costly alternatives to flooded batteries are valve regulated lead acid (VRLA) batteries, also called "sealed" batteries. The absorbed glass mat (AGM) type uses a glass mat separator, and a "gel cell" uses fine powder to absorb and immobilize the sulfuric acid electrolyte. These batteries are not serviceable: the cells are sealed so the degree of charge cannot be measured by hydrometer and the electrolyte cannot be replenished. More information about AGM and gel cell types he http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lead%E2...rbed_glass_mat I think I must have looked at that article befo Wikipedia would usually be my first port of call. It seems to be rather old-fashioned/generalised. I haven't seen a car battery with removeable caps for years, and the ones I have looked at don't seem to be 'sealed' in the sense of being able to be mounted in any orientation, and they do appear to have liquid electrolyte, but just no way to top them up. I suppose it must just be part of a gradual improvement in design rather than anything radical. -- Max Demian |
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#65
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"Steve Thackery" wrote in message
... Roderick Stewart wrote: If I had found that our nominal 15Ah batteries which had only tested at about 9.5Ah on the 4.8A test load gave something like the full 15Ah at the lower test current, I'd still have been disappointed but I'd have understood, but it was nowhere near, maybe about 0.5Ah to 1Ah higher at the most. I was just wondering how they'd fare at 150mA, which would be the 100 hour rate. From what you've said, it doesn't sound like they'd manage 15Ah even then, which strongly suggests the claimed capacity is simply bogus. I'd have thought a 10-12 hour discharge time to cover a working day was reasonable though; it's no more than we expect from our computers and phones. What are these small lead acid cells intended for, anyway? I'm not talking about 15Ah motorcycle batteries, which are more like car batteries in being designed for high starting currents. Rod was describing those lead acid batteries you can buy from Maplin and the like. Does anyone know of a real-world application for them? Is a 10-12 hour discharge time realistic? Well I've got a hand held vacuum cleaner with a 6V lead acid battery if that's any help. (Vax Libretto) -- Max Demian |
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#66
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On Fri, 11 Oct 2013 12:07:24 -0500, "Steve Thackery"
wrote: I'd have thought a 10-12 hour discharge time to cover a working day was reasonable though; it's no more than we expect from our computers and phones. What are these small lead acid cells intended for, anyway? I'm not talking about 15Ah motorcycle batteries, which are more like car batteries in being designed for high starting currents. Rod was describing those lead acid batteries you can buy from Maplin and the like. Does anyone know of a real-world application for them? Is a 10-12 hour discharge time realistic? It was some time ago now, but the 15Ah ones were built into flight cases with small video monitors that drew about 1.75A, in the hope that they would run for a full working day without the nuisance of recharging. Unfortunately they tended to conk out towards the end of the afternoon, which is what prompted the investigation into the true capacity as opposed to what was printed on the side. We used a lot of smaller nicad batteries that clipped onto the backs of cameras, or fitted into video recorders and sound mixing desks, either 1.6Ah or 3.5Ah. These deteriorated after a year or so, but what affected them most was cold weather. On a winter's day some of them only lasted about half as long as they should. They also cost a fortune; a Sony or PAG 3.5Ah nicad battery would cost about £200, whereas a biggish car battery of about 60Ah would cost about a quarter of that, and didn't suffer so much in the cold. We tended to use car batteries or Dryfits in homebrew carry cases except where portability was an issue, because although they were heavy we didn't have to change them so often. Rod. |
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#67
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In article ,
Max Demian wrote: I think I must have looked at that article befo Wikipedia would usually be my first port of call. It seems to be rather old-fashioned/generalised. I haven't seen a car battery with removeable caps for years, and the ones I have looked at don't seem to be 'sealed' in the sense of being able to be mounted in any orientation, and they do appear to have liquid electrolyte, but just no way to top them up. They usually have normal caps under some sticky back plastic. But simply don't need topping up - unless you have a faulty alternator. Even on my 30 year old Rover. -- *I can see your point, but I still think you're full of ****. Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
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#68
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In article ,
Roderick Stewart wrote: We used a lot of smaller nicad batteries that clipped onto the backs of cameras, or fitted into video recorders and sound mixing desks, either 1.6Ah or 3.5Ah. These deteriorated after a year or so, but what affected them most was cold weather. On a winter's day some of them only lasted about half as long as they should. They also cost a fortune; a Sony or PAG 3.5Ah nicad battery would cost about £200, whereas a biggish car battery of about 60Ah would cost about a quarter of that, and didn't suffer so much in the cold. We tended to use car batteries or Dryfits in homebrew carry cases except where portability was an issue, because although they were heavy we didn't have to change them so often. Yes. If size weight and portability wasn't a major issue, car batteries were a very cost effective solution - provided you didn't run them flat. Use them down to no more than half capacity, and they seemed to last as well as in a car. -- *My designated driver drove me to drink Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
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#69
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On Fri, 11 Oct 2013 12:57:20 +0100, "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote: In article , Johny B Good wrote: On Fri, 11 Oct 2013 00:32:51 +0100, "Dave Plowman (News)" wrote: In article , Paul Ratcliffe wrote: A 'dry charged' lead acid has a very good shelf life Could you explain that term please. Not sure I've heard it before. It is in a fully charged state chemically speaking but with the acid removed. Add acid of the correct SG, and you have a battery ready to go after an hour or so 'settling'. It's also a safe way to transport a battery with the acid in a separate sealed container - that's how most mail order batteries arrive. I think you meant to say: "that's how most mail order Flooded Cell Lead Acid batteries arrive. No I didn't. Not in the context of talking about dry charged lead acid. The principle doesn't exist with SLA types. Well, a dry charged lead acid battery (or cell) is simply a Flooded Cell Lead Acid type that has simply had the electrolyte filling stage of its manufacture postponed so that the end user can complete this final stage of manufacture for himself. Transporting the required electrolyte fill in a seperate stout polyethylene bottle reduces the risk of dilute sulphuric acid spill considerably (presumably to the point where the parcel delivery service deem it sufficiently safe to withstand the rigours of transport) The 'dryfit' types (AGM or Gel types) are, quite obviously, supplied in a ready for service state so should be excluded from this particular safety aspect of mail order transportation. Sealed lead acid is the correct name. Although it has been hijacked by SLA was what I meant but the TLA escaped me for the moment so I used a tradename in its stead. some for use with semi-sealed wet types. Which still have a means of filling concealed beneath a sticker or whatever. This type are usually refered to as "Low Maintainance" but are sometimes, erroneously, also described as "Maintainance Free". -- Regards, J B Good |
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#70
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On Fri, 11 Oct 2013 17:56:14 +0100, "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote: In article , Roderick Stewart wrote: On Fri, 11 Oct 2013 16:32:01 +0100, "Max Demian" wrote: What I want to know is, what *exactly* have they done to car batteries so that they don't need to be topped up any more. I know that they are supposed to use a different lead alloy for the electrodes, which supposedly reduces the amount of 'gassing' (conversion of water to hydrogen and oxygen by electrolysis) during charging, but what about loss by evaporation? Probably the same as anything else these days that is regarded as "maintenance free". You just throw it away before it needs any. Not so - I've just replaced an 11 year old battery which never had any attention. Some years ago that would have been unthinkable. That, quite obviously, must have been a genuine "Maintainance Free" design with pressure relief vent caps and catalytic materials incorporated into each cell to recycle the hydrogen/oxygen mix back into water (and low grade heat). I bet you were taking full advanatage of an engine that could fire up within one revolution of being cranked on the starter to minimse wear and tear on both battery and starter motor. Some (most?) people will keep the starter running for a second or so after the engine has actually fired up which puts additional stress on battery and starter. -- Regards, J B Good |
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