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#21
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Mr Guest wrote:
Also when taking the shots, even if the camera is tripod-mounted, if there is a self-timer setting, this will prevent any camera shake from pressing the shutter button down fully. I tried some long exposure night-time shots recently and the 2 second self-timer delay was very handy. Yes, a good point which I forgot! I generally use the self timer. Bill |
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#22
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In article , Bill Wright
Take care to get the projector dead square on to the screen. Obviously it must be opposite the midpoint of the projected picture. snip fro brevity For copying colour, project nothing (white screen) and set the camera's colour balance accordingly. If the camera won't do that try the settings for tungsten light. There will probably be several. Ultimately, correct balance in Photoshop, but get it as good as you can in the camera first. All of which is fine for slides, however you need more than in-camera colour balance and Photoshop to cope with colour negatives, due to the deep orange base. The dynamic range of even the best digital cameras just isn't enough to accommodate that and yield even mediocre colour and tonal range after inversion. You need to use a very deep cyan-ish blue, ideally adjustable density, filter on the camera to correct for the orange mask before the image gets recorded on the digicam's sensor and even then the results are a bit hit and miss. Basically the same thing as you had to do on a colour enlarger when making prints from negs, although colour paper was already more sensitive to blue (which is one reason why the orange mask was there in the first place). However, if you want to do the job properly, get one of the later versions of Nikon Coolscan Scanner (4000/V/5000/8000/9000), with "ICE" - a separate infrared channel is used which is mainly transmitted by the film. The software automatically compares this channel with the RGB channels to identify and clone out any scratches or dust - saving hours in Photoshop on each image. Like the best kit, they don't make 'em anymore, but you can still pick them up on Ebay and sell them there (for a loss of pennies if not a profit) after you have scanned all your film. -- Kennedy Yes, Socrates himself is particularly missed; A lovely little thinker, but a bugger when he's ****ed. Python Philosophers (replace 'nospam' with 'kennedym' when replying) |
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#23
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On Sun, 2 Jan 2011 19:22:45 UTC, Bill Wright wrote:
Dave Saville wrote: On Sun, 2 Jan 2011 15:14:14 UTC, J G Miller wrote: On Sunday, January 2nd, 2011 at 14:48:21h +0000, Dave Saville wrote: The mistake I made was not buying the slide attachment for it when it was new :-( Do you check eBay (or similar sites) from time to time to see if anybody is selling one "pre-owned"? No - I think I might try Bill's idea of projecting and re photographing - when he posts his "how to" :-) It's done, it's done! Bill Thanks Bill -- Regards Dave Saville |
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#24
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On Sat, 1 Jan 2011 16:21:38 +0000 (UTC), "Dave Saville" wrote: Anyone had experiance of the 35mm film and slide scanners that the like of Maplins sell? Looking for a self containd type that records to SD card. No way will I find drivers for a connected one for my old OS/2 system. :-) TIA Yes, the ION2PC unit I got from Maplin doesn't give a full intensity scan across the full area so the light falls off at the edges and corners. |
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