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#31
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JoeJoe wrote:
Brick in and out with cavity. No chance of fishing anything... Tried that before.. Not so. I have an old free-gift tape measure, 1/4" wide. I make a loop in it, and feed the loop through the 1/2 inch hole I bore in the wall at the bottom of my cable run. Feed _lots_ of it through, and it spreads out along the cavity both ways from the hole. To make it clear, _both_ ends of the tape stay in the room. Adjourn to the loft, and bore another hold near-as-darnnit vertically above the other hole. Drop an old bath plug chain (the sort that's balls in a line) down the cavity, with string tied on to it. Feed lots of string. No, more than that Go down again, and pull out the tape. 9 times out of 10 I have some string in my hand. The rest I leave as an exercise for the student. Andy |
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#32
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"JoeJoe" wrote in message o.uk... A diagram of the current setup can be found he http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=2lmuv86&s=3 It's a nice tent. Ok, now I'll be serious. Firstly, ignore everything said by Mr Conor. His advice is worse than useless. I don't know what motivates him, but everything he says is wrong. Would anyone like to support me in this? You aerials appear to be of different groups; one Gp and two Gp A. I must say that photographs can be deceptive and I could be wrong. But if I'm right it could explain your poor reception. I suggest that you proceed as follows: Install a decent 18 element Group E aerial (not a wideband one) at the top of a 6ft x 1.25" mast, using a 9" or bigger chimney bracket. A good choice of aerial is the Blake SR18 Group E. Use a CAI approved cable that has 100 in the number. Run the cable to your nearest TV point. Connect to the receiver using a 12dB attenuator. Observe the results for a week. If they are consistently perfect on all channels buy a three way inductive screened splitter with a loss figure of 7dB (not a satellite splitter with a loss of 9dB) and fit it at that point, and run cables to the other two points. If the results are imperfect with the attenuator but better or perfect without it, buy a four output Proception indoor amplifier and fit it at that point. No matter what, you have to get new cables from the ae to point 2, and from point 2 to point 1 and from point 2 to point 3. Or you could use a different configuration, but the essential fact remains: you must run new cables. Don't waste time re-using old coax. There's the alternative of using a masthead amp/splitter, but I think you will risk having too much signal entering the amp that way. If you decide to follow my suggestions above I can give you part numbers etc. Bill |
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#33
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In article , Bill Wright
says... Ok, now I'll be serious. Firstly, ignore everything said by Mr Conor. His advice is worse than useless. I don't know what motivates him, but everything he says is wrong. Bull****. Shall we try "you're a **** stained old ******" for a start? -- Conor www.notebooks-r-us.co.uk I only please one person per day. Today is not your day. Tomorrow isn't looking good either. - Scott Adams |
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#34
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"Bill Wright" wrote in message ... typo correction: You aerials appear to be of different groups; one Gp B and two Gp A. Bill |
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#35
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Bill Wright wrote:
Firstly, ignore everything said by Mr Conor. His advice is worse than useless. I don't know what motivates him, but everything he says is wrong. Would anyone like to support me in this? I agree 100%. [...] There's the alternative of using a masthead amp/splitter, but I think you will risk having too much signal entering the amp that way. The Proception proMHD14R (running in Mode 1) is worthy of consideration here. Being a single-stage amplifier it's pretty bomb-proof in terms of input level (84 dBuV max i/p) and the modest gain (~4 dB to each o/p) puts it in the class of 'active splitter' rather than 'booster'. Powering is 5-12 V, so you can run the whole 4-way system from a Freeview box or IDTV that will do 5 V on the aerial socket. -- Andy |
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#36
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"Andy Wade" wrote in message ... Bill Wright wrote: Firstly, ignore everything said by Mr Conor. His advice is worse than useless. I don't know what motivates him, but everything he says is wrong. Would anyone like to support me in this? I agree 100%. [...] There's the alternative of using a masthead amp/splitter, but I think you will risk having too much signal entering the amp that way. The Proception proMHD14R (running in Mode 1) is worthy of consideration here. Being a single-stage amplifier it's pretty bomb-proof in terms of input level (84 dBuV max i/p) and the modest gain (~4 dB to each o/p) puts it in the class of 'active splitter' rather than 'booster'. Powering is 5-12 V, so you can run the whole 4-way system from a Freeview box or IDTV that will do 5 V on the aerial socket. I did wonder about mentioning this, but the be honest it all gets too problematical when the bloke isn't using any sort of meter. My own technique BTW is to use either a 9B or a 16dB Proception amp plus a two, three, or four way split (with DC pass). Why? Because I do very few such jobs and I carry minimum stck types. Bill |
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#37
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In article , Bill Wright
says... I did wonder about mentioning this, but the be honest it all gets too problematical when the bloke isn't using any sort of meter. My own technique BTW is to use either a 9B or a 16dB Proception amp plus a two, three, or four way split (with DC pass). Why? Because I like to overcomplicate things to look impressive and rip off the customer. Fixed your post for you. -- Conor www.notebooks-r-us.co.uk I only please one person per day. Today is not your day. Tomorrow isn't looking good either. - Scott Adams |
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#38
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"Conor" wrote in message ... In article , Bill Wright says... I did wonder about mentioning this, but the be honest it all gets too problematical when the bloke isn't using any sort of meter. My own technique BTW is to use either a 9B or a 16dB Proception amp plus a two, three, or four way split (with DC pass). Why? Because I like to overcomplicate things to look impressive and rip off the customer. Fixed your post for you. -- Conor Just for the sake of clarity I should point out that Mr Conor has edited and added to my post. Since the result of this deception is defamatory and could adversely affect my business I can't just ignore it. Bill |
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#39
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"Bill Wright" wrote in message ... "JoeJoe" wrote in message o.uk... A diagram of the current setup can be found he http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=2lmuv86&s=3 It's a nice tent. Ok, now I'll be serious. Firstly, ignore everything said by Mr Conor. His advice is worse than useless. I don't know what motivates him, but everything he says is wrong. Would anyone like to support me in this? You aerials appear to be of different groups; one Gp and two Gp A. I must say that photographs can be deceptive and I could be wrong. But if I'm right it could explain your poor reception. I suggest that you proceed as follows: Install a decent 18 element Group E aerial (not a wideband one) at the top of a 6ft x 1.25" mast, using a 9" or bigger chimney bracket. A good choice of aerial is the Blake SR18 Group E. Use a CAI approved cable that has 100 in the number. Run the cable to your nearest TV point. Connect to the receiver using a 12dB attenuator. Observe the results for a week. If they are consistently perfect on all channels buy a three way inductive screened splitter with a loss figure of 7dB (not a satellite splitter with a loss of 9dB) and fit it at that point, and run cables to the other two points. If the results are imperfect with the attenuator but better or perfect without it, buy a four output Proception indoor amplifier and fit it at that point. No matter what, you have to get new cables from the ae to point 2, and from point 2 to point 1 and from point 2 to point 3. Or you could use a different configuration, but the essential fact remains: you must run new cables. Don't waste time re-using old coax. There's the alternative of using a masthead amp/splitter, but I think you will risk having too much signal entering the amp that way. If you decide to follow my suggestions above I can give you part numbers etc. Bill Thanks Bill - just the sort of information that I was looking for! I will follow your advice - i.e. connect only one point, and then re-assess. I would really appreciate it if you could give me some pointers/links to part numbers. If it is not too hard, than a couple of brands for each, just in case out-of-stock etc. Would either of these cables be ok? http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/CAPF100W.html http://www.screwfix.com/prods/22591/...3YC4CSTHZOCFEY Also, I assume that the TV points on the wall need to be terminated in a coaxial socket rather than f-type on (e.g. http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Elec...sd2633/p65086). Is there anything to consider when choosing those? |
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#40
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On Mon, 10 Aug 2009 10:48:29 +0100, Bill Wright
wrote: "Conor" wrote in message ... In article , Bill Wright says... I did wonder about mentioning this, but the be honest it all gets too problematical when the bloke isn't using any sort of meter. My own technique BTW is to use either a 9B or a 16dB Proception amp plus a two, three, or four way split (with DC pass). Why? Because I like to overcomplicate things to look impressive and rip off the customer. Fixed your post for you. -- Conor Just for the sake of clarity I should point out that Mr Conor has edited and added to my post. Since the result of this deception is defamatory and could adversely affect my business I can't just ignore it. Conor Turton is a name I remember from quite some time ago, and not in a good way. The first post here kind of sums him up: http://groups.google.co.uk/group/uk....29512e1b1fbfcf I would guess he's been 'away' for some years for his misbehaviour and has recently been let out. In my opinion he's probably flogging knocked off and/or secondhand laptops and stuff as new to the unsuspecting punter. He'll hopefully be going 'away' again soon for his illegal, libelous and defamatory activities. He's certainly another clueless troll and worthy of killfiling. Whatever you do people, don't have anything to do with: Notebooks R Us Mr Conor Turton 36 Eastfield Road Driffield YO25 5EZ 07915 088177 +44 1377 252390 |
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