![]() |
| If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above. You may have to register before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below. |
|
|||||||
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
|
#12
|
|||
|
|||
|
In article ,
Agamemnon wrote: But how efficient is heating up water and pumping it around the house, when most of the rooms are empty, compared to direct radiation from the back of TV. What about all the heat from the boiler that goes out of the flue as hot air? Very little with a modern boiler. They all use heat recovery from the flue gasses. -- *Being healthy is merely the slowest possible rate at which one can die. Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
|
#13
|
|||
|
|||
|
In article ,
Brian Gaff wrote: Many modern boilers have very cool flues I notice. Thus one assumes they must capture the heat somehow internally. Commonly called condensing boilers. Identifiable by the plume of water vapour from the flue on cold days. For others, obviously. ;-) I am all electric as its considered safer for us blind folk you know, always setting fire to ourselves aren't we? Not quite sure how that applies to a heating system - although I can see how it matters with a hob. A decent one with weather compensation should only really require an on off switch. -- *He who laughs last has just realised the joke. Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
|
#14
|
|||
|
|||
|
"Brian Gaff" wrote in message m... And as for plastic bags, I now have to buy rolls of them for me rubbish whereas before I just used the supermarket ones. bah humbug. Yes, and the ones you buy contain far more plastic (because they are a heavier gauge) and thus create more landfill. Bill |
|
#15
|
|||
|
|||
|
And if I can't have a cheep power hungry TV heating up the room then I will have to pay more for the central hearting. Only when the weather is cold! On a hot summer night, you would have to put a fan on or turn the air conditioning system on to cool down this unwanted heat generated. Bloody environmentalist morons. You have only thought about one part of the year, and not the rest of it! Who is short-sighted now? It's bad enough they had to phase out 100W light bulbs. How am I supposed to stay warm while reading in bed? Blankets and pyjamas? Or how about not reading in bed? What is wrong with reading in another part of the house that is warm anyway, eg the kitchen or living room? Don't these idiots ever think. Are you referring to yourself? How much energy and damage to the atmosphere do those useless florescent energy efficient light bulbs cost to manufacture compared to cheep 100W ones. I have never heard of a lightbulb that makes bird noises!! If the heat for the house doesn't come from them then something else will have to provide it, This is not always so! It could be warm out anyway! John |
|
#16
|
|||
|
|||
|
In article ,
Bob Latham wrote: In article , Dave Plowman (News) wrote: In article , Brian Gaff wrote: Many modern boilers have very cool flues I notice. Thus one assumes they must capture the heat somehow internally. Commonly called condensing boilers. Identifiable by the plume of water vapour from the flue on cold days. For others, obviously. ;-) From what I understand and I'm not an expert, there is a problem with condensing boilers though. It seems that they use two heat exchangers, the second of which works in the normal way. The first one however is used to heat the returning (coldest) water before it enters the main part of the boiler. Older designs - which were actually modifications from non condensing - could but newer ones have a purpose built heat exchanger. Although the principle is the same. The condensing action recovers heat (latent) that is used to change a liquid into a gas and hence returns *mostly* steam into water. The problem though is that this only happens whilst the returning water is cold enough. When the water warms up, the first heat exchanger is too hot to condense the steam in the flue and the condensing action stops as does a lot of the heat recovery. A decent modern boiler will modulate the flame and pump speed to maintain the optimum. With mine this means slightly slower warm up times compared to the old non condensing boiler. Although I could over-ride this if needed to get faster warm up by allowing the boiler to go into non condensing mode. To improve the situation, some people seem to advocate fitting over sized radiators in every room, the idea being to get the returning water temperature lower so as to maintain condensing action longer. Yes. If the system was undersized so the boiler can rarely get into condensing mode this is so. But most were designed to cope with temperatures well below the winter norm so can operate in condensing mode for most of the time. Obviously changing otherwise ok rads for larger ones is expensive - so you'd need to work out if the investment was worth it in fuel savings. I did and it wasn't. What I would love to know is what is the real world improvement of a condensing boiler over just a new boiler without changing the radiators. Here somewhere over 20% in gas usage. Of course the rise in gas prices means I'm actually paying more than this time last year - I installed the new boiler last spring. The old boiler was a balanced flue type with pilot light mounted internally where the waste heat wasn't wasted - at least in the winter. With up to date controls - programmable thermostat for the main living area and TRVs elsewhere. The new boiler is weather compensated. But the hot water remains as was - a storage system. Oh, and I think these boilers have to have fans in the flue because you can no longer rely on hot air rising to remove the fumes. Fan assisted flues came in long before condensing boilers. They allow a longer flue than the older balanced flue terminals. -- *Someday, we'll look back on this, laugh nervously and change the subject Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
|
#17
|
|||
|
|||
|
"Agamemnon" wrote in message . uk... "Richard Tobin" wrote in message ... In article , Agamemnon wrote: And if I can't have a cheep power hungry TV heating up the room then I will have to pay more for the central hearting. Electricity: 11.518 p/kWh Gas: 3.398 p/kWh But how efficient is heating up water and pumping it around the house, when most of the rooms are empty, compared to direct radiation from the back of TV. What about all the heat from the boiler that goes out of the flue as hot air? There are several kinds of radiation that's emitted from televisions, not all of it is heat. Using televisions as heaters would not be easy to do as you would have to quote consumption & picture quality & cost... rough to mix all 3 ![]() |
|
#18
|
|||
|
|||
|
In article ,
mr deo wrote: There are several kinds of radiation that's emitted from televisions, not all of it is heat. It's all heat sooner or later. Sound, light, x-rays - they all just heat something up. Some may escape - if your neighbours can see or hear your TV, then you're heating their house up too. -- Richard -- Please remember to mention me / in tapes you leave behind. |
|
#19
|
|||
|
|||
|
Agamemnon wrote:
"Richard Tobin" wrote in message ... In article , Agamemnon wrote: And if I can't have a cheep power hungry TV heating up the room then I will have to pay more for the central hearting. Electricity: 11.518 p/kWh Gas: 3.398 p/kWh But how efficient is heating up water and pumping it around the house, when most of the rooms are empty, compared to direct radiation from the back of With proper controls (thermostatic rad valves, appropriate zoning, and boiler interlock (i.e. programmable thermostat) it is actually quite efficent. TV. What about all the heat from the boiler that goes out of the flue as hot air? a modern boiler will loose well under 10% or the energy input out of the flue. Your TV may be nearly 100% efficient at turning electricity into heat, but electricity is a secondary energy source, with less than 60% efficiency when you include the generation and distribution elements. So in general, the only time that using the TV as a heat source is preferable or at least equal to other heating methods, is when your whole heating system is electric (resistive) only. (one also needs to factor in that during some of the year the heat contribution from the TV is unwelcome) -- Cheers, John. /================================================== ===============\ | Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk | |-----------------------------------------------------------------| | John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk | \================================================= ================/ |
|
#20
|
|||
|
|||
|
Bob Latham wrote:
From what I understand and I'm not an expert, there is a problem with condensing boilers though. It seems that they use two heat exchangers, the second of which works in the normal way. The first one however is used to heat the returning (coldest) water before it enters the main part of the boiler. The ones with additional HEs were basically kludges to modify existing designs. Purpose designed condensers use one larger (and much more efficient) HE. (and make it from a material that does not mind getting wet - many of the kludge designs still used cast iron primary HEs that promptly rotted away quickly in the presence of mildly acidic condensate water) The condensing action recovers heat (latent) that is used to change a liquid into a gas and hence returns *mostly* steam into water. The problem Yup, the liquid in question being the water manufactured when oxidising a hydro-carbon... though is that this only happens whilst the returning water is cold enough. When the water warms up, the first heat exchanger is too hot to condense the steam in the flue and the condensing action stops as does a lot of the heat recovery. There is a rise in efficiency when the return temp falls below the dew point of the condensate (approx 54 deg C). However the larger more efficient HE recovers more heat at all temperatures. So there is always nett gain over boilers that used to be designed to have a very low risk of condensing. You also need to factor in that most boilers are modulating these days and have reasonably sophisticated control systems. This will ensure that the boiler is kept in its more efficient operating conditions for longer by attempting to match the heat input from the boiler to the heat loss of the building. This also improves comfort with more consistent temperature control and less overshoot. To improve the situation, some people seem to advocate fitting over sized radiators in every room, the idea being to get the returning water temperature lower so as to maintain condensing action longer. This is only really worth doing if the existing rads were bordering on the small side. Even then it will not make any difference for the vast bulk of the year. However with the smaller rads, the efficiency might fall on the very coldest days since the boiler will need to up its flow temperature in order to get the house warm enough. What I would love to know is what is the real world improvement of a condensing boiler over just a new boiler without changing the radiators. For all but 10 - 20 days a year, probably about what it says on the tin. The best non condenser is perhaps 80% - 85% efficient, and current boilers will be in the 91% to 96% range. Having said that, the environmental benefit of ripping and replacing a working system before it is required just to get better boiler efficiency is doubtful at best. Oh, and I think these boilers have to have fans in the flue because you can no longer rely on hot air rising to remove the fumes. All modern boilers use premix burners and fanned flues - this applies to condensers and the older models as well. In fact there is little difference in complexity between a modern electronic control boiler and its condensing evolution. The non fan assisted flue models with natural draft flues are significantly less efficient - often in the 50 - 65% range. The history of designs is charted he http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?...iler_Evolution -- Cheers, John. /================================================== ===============\ | Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk | |-----------------------------------------------------------------| | John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk | \================================================= ================/ |
| Thread Tools | |
| Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads
|
||||
| Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
| OEM TV remotes for sale cheap $2.50-$8 | Steve Kral | High definition TV | 1 | July 14th 08 11:24 PM |
| video supermarket !good quality and cheap price!brand new, and factory sale | [email protected] | UK digital tv | 0 | August 23rd 07 08:40 AM |
| * Warning * For anyone using Auction world Television * Warning * | Marky | UK sky | 16 | October 12th 04 06:01 PM |