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#41
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On 20/12/2014 13:06, Martin wrote:
On Sat, 20 Dec 2014 11:54:50 +0000, Peter Crosland wrote: On 19/12/2014 22:15, Martin wrote: On Fri, 19 Dec 2014 19:25:56 +0000, Peter Crosland wrote: On 19/12/2014 13:23, Bill Wright wrote: Roger wrote: It's because channels 1, 6 and 11 are the only ones that dont overlap each other. Any of the channels in between overlap 1, 6 or 11 (whichevr 2 they are inbetween) as well as each other. It appears to me (could be wrong) the the energy distribution is greatest on the nominal channel, and falls off towards the edges of the group of channels actually used. In that case it would be better to use intermediate channels, even though there would be some overlap. The real answer is to move to the 5Ghz Wi-Fi band. This may mean buying a new router and Wi-Fi dongle but is well worth it in my experience if you are in an urban area. Until all your neighbours have done the same. Nonsense! There is much more bandwidth available on 5Ghz so there is less chance of intereference. All the neighbourhood doesn't have wifi ATM. One day they will. But we are discussing the present not the future. -- Peter Crosland Reply address is valid |
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#42
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On Sat, 20 Dec 2014 13:19:28 +0000, Johny B Good
wrote: Two out of the six nearest wifi have no security. How do you identify the location of the house with no security? Log in and set security yourself, then see who comes asking for help. A properly designed wireless router should make it totally impossible under _any_ circumstance for a wirelessly connected user to gain admin access in order to do just as you've suggested but ISTR seeing just such a monumental piece of stupidity demonstrated by at least one model of WiFi enabled router. A great many users of home internet kit do not possess an ethernet cable, or in some cases any device with an ethernet port. Trust me, I've spoken to lots of them. If it wasn't possible to configure a router by wireless, how would they ever do it? In view of the above, supplying brand new routers with security off, and "admin" and "password" as the default login details is not a very good idea. It wouldn't matter if everybody knew what to do and had the wherewithall to do it, but many don't. Some routers nowadays are supplied with individual default login details which are also printed on a sticker or card, which is much better. They're just gobbledygook numbers and letters, though you can change them to memorable names if you want. Even if customers don't know how to log in and change them or the only device they have is a smartphone or game console, at least the system is usable straight away without their neighbours being able to mess with it. Rod. |
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#43
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On Sat, 20 Dec 2014 14:05:15 +0100, Martin wrote:
Use a wifi repeater/amplifier in a house where walls etc. reduce signal. Price from about £12 (Aldi) to £35 for a really good one. Wireless repeaters will only give half the available local speed at best. If this is an issue, an ethernet or powerline extension to another access point is the way to go. Including extensions in every room and all over the garden? You may be able to effect a worthwhile improvement with one cable extension to one strategically placed wireless access point. Wherever you place it, a wireless access point fed with a cable will give a better performance than a wireless access point fed by wireless, which is effectively what a repeater is. I don't have a performance problem when using a repeater. Try a speed test while connected wirelessly to the main router, then try it again while connected wirelessly to the repeater. Rod. |
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#44
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"Johny B Good" wrote in message
... On Fri, 19 Dec 2014 13:34:34 +0000, Roderick Stewart wrote: On Fri, 19 Dec 2014 10:13:49 +0100, Martin wrote: Two out of the six nearest wifi have no security. How do you identify the location of the house with no security? Log in and set security yourself, then see who comes asking for help. A properly designed wireless router should make it totally impossible under _any_ circumstance for a wirelessly connected user to gain admin access in order to do just as you've suggested but ISTR seeing just such a monumental piece of stupidity demonstrated by at least one model of WiFi enabled router. It'll be interesting to see how Martin gets on if he tries your suggestion. :-) I wonder if anyone's keeping a black list of such 'security braindead' WiFi routers available for inspection anywhere on the 'net? My Belkin allows admin login via Wife for a start. And the Wife was enabled by default with no password when I got it. The manual only tells you to set up security *after* you have got the Wife working, so if you don't have any Wife devices I suppose you would leave it unsecured. Disabling Wife is buried in the router setup screens somewhere. -- Max Demian |
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#45
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"Max Demian" wrote in message
... "Johny B Good" wrote in message ... On Fri, 19 Dec 2014 13:34:34 +0000, Roderick Stewart wrote: On Fri, 19 Dec 2014 10:13:49 +0100, Martin wrote: Two out of the six nearest wifi have no security. How do you identify the location of the house with no security? Log in and set security yourself, then see who comes asking for help. A properly designed wireless router should make it totally impossible under _any_ circumstance for a wirelessly connected user to gain admin access in order to do just as you've suggested but ISTR seeing just such a monumental piece of stupidity demonstrated by at least one model of WiFi enabled router. It'll be interesting to see how Martin gets on if he tries your suggestion. :-) I wonder if anyone's keeping a black list of such 'security braindead' WiFi routers available for inspection anywhere on the 'net? My Belkin allows admin login via Wife for a start. And the Wife was enabled by default with no password when I got it. The manual only tells you to set up security *after* you have got the Wife working, so if you don't have any Wife devices I suppose you would leave it unsecured. Disabling Wife is buried in the router setup screens somewhere. My Belkin allows admin login via Wi-Fi for a start. And the Wi-Fi was enabled by default with no password when I got it. The manual only tells you to set up security *after* you have got the Wi-Fi working, so if you don't have any Wi-Fi devices I suppose you would leave it unsecured. Disabling Wi-Fi is buried in the router setup screens somewhere. (****ing spell checker.) -- Max Demian |
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#46
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Max Demian wrote:
My Belkin allows admin login via Wi-Fi for a start. And the Wi-Fi was enabled by default with no password when I got it. The manual only tells you to set up security *after* you have got the Wi-Fi working, so if you don't have any Wi-Fi devices I suppose you would leave it unsecured. Disabling Wi-Fi is buried in the router setup screens somewhere. (****ing spell checker.) It worked quite well as a joke though. Bill |
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#47
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On Sun, 21 Dec 2014 00:12:57 -0000, "Max Demian"
wrote: "Max Demian" wrote in message ... "Johny B Good" wrote in message ... On Fri, 19 Dec 2014 13:34:34 +0000, Roderick Stewart wrote: On Fri, 19 Dec 2014 10:13:49 +0100, Martin wrote: Two out of the six nearest wifi have no security. How do you identify the location of the house with no security? Log in and set security yourself, then see who comes asking for help. A properly designed wireless router should make it totally impossible under _any_ circumstance for a wirelessly connected user to gain admin access in order to do just as you've suggested but ISTR seeing just such a monumental piece of stupidity demonstrated by at least one model of WiFi enabled router. It'll be interesting to see how Martin gets on if he tries your suggestion. :-) I wonder if anyone's keeping a black list of such 'security braindead' WiFi routers available for inspection anywhere on the 'net? My Belkin allows admin login via Wife for a start. And the Wife was enabled by default with no password when I got it. The manual only tells you to set up security *after* you have got the Wife working, so if you don't have any Wife devices I suppose you would leave it unsecured. Disabling Wife is buried in the router setup screens somewhere. My Belkin allows admin login via Wi-Fi for a start. And the Wi-Fi was enabled by default with no password when I got it. The manual only tells you to set up security *after* you have got the Wi-Fi working, so if you don't have any Wi-Fi devices I suppose you would leave it unsecured. Disabling Wi-Fi is buried in the router setup screens somewhere. (****ing spell checker.) There's something to be said for totally eschewing spell chuckers altogether. At least the mistakes and typos are all your own work. :-) -- J B Good |
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#48
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On 20/12/2014 12:02, Peter Crosland wrote:
On 20/12/2014 00:00, Brian Gregory wrote: On 19/12/2014 19:25, Peter Crosland wrote: On 19/12/2014 13:23, Bill Wright wrote: Roger wrote: It's because channels 1, 6 and 11 are the only ones that dont overlap each other. Any of the channels in between overlap 1, 6 or 11 (whichevr 2 they are inbetween) as well as each other. It appears to me (could be wrong) the the energy distribution is greatest on the nominal channel, and falls off towards the edges of the group of channels actually used. In that case it would be better to use intermediate channels, even though there would be some overlap. The real answer is to move to the 5Ghz Wi-Fi band. This may mean buying a new router and Wi-Fi dongle but is well worth it in my experience if you are in an urban area. 5GHz seems to have much less ability to go through walls though. What kind of wall and how thick? I can't detect much difference between my 2.4 and 5Ghz network anywhere in my house. Brick wall. -- Brian Gregory (in the UK). To email me please remove all the letter vee from my email address. |
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#49
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On 20/12/2014 09:12, Andy Burns wrote:
Brian Gregory wrote: Andy Burns wrote: alan_m wrote: I have my router configured to band 4 you will partly overlap with everyone using ch2,3, 5 and 6. Yes - meaning more than twice the chance of your packets being corrupted. Twice the chance of half the damage, compared to being slap-bang on the same channel as a near neighbour ... A half damaged packet still has to be dropped. -- Brian Gregory (in the UK). To email me please remove all the letter vee from my email address. |
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#50
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