PING : Electronic experts.

Dinky Earnshaw wrote:
On 23/10/2010 09:00, steve auvache wrote:
On Sat, 23 Oct 2010 08:39:24 +0100, "Brian Gaff"
wrote:

Obviously I cannot see this, but there is a third thing about
electrolytic capacitors, and that is you need to get them in the
right way around or they tend not only to not like it, but
depending on the use, can damage much of the rest of the equipment
if you are not careful.

Yes, yes, as much as we all know you are top posting scum

Idiot.

I think it quite impressive that Brian manages to post at all,
considering he is blind.

As he physically can't see where his cursor is to avoid top posting I
think it would be a little difficult for him to do so.

Strangely enough he managed it OK in his second "go away" posting!

--
Tony
'04 Ducati ST3, '08 DL650GT,
97 TW200, '87 semi-rat LS650, OMF#24

Oily wrote:

....and the 9501 probably a part number

Or when it was made. I've seen this used on chips, but whether it's
ever done on fuses I don't know. Just a guess.

SteveT

On 23 Oct, 18:13, "TMack"
wrote:

Strangely enough he managed it OK in his second "go away" posting!

Or... it was a different person.

David Paste wrote:
On 23 Oct, 18:13, "TMack"
wrote:

Strangely enough he managed it OK in his second "go away" posting!

Or... it was a different person.

Quite right, my mistake. Apologies all round.

--
Tony
'04 Ducati ST3, '08 DL650GT,
97 TW200, '87 semi-rat LS650, OMF#24

On 23 Oct,
"malc" wrote:

Could be but one end seems to be pointy. It could be a diode or even a
fuse.

Thermal fuses usually are.

--
BD
Change lycos to yahoo to reply

The resistors in the green "blob" have probably failed. The init should be
colled by air through the heater fan. Usually the unit overheats because of
a blocked pollen filter reducing the air flow.. Try REMOCO for a
replacement.

"Brian Gaff" wrote in message
...
I find it hard to believe that you can know which part of a speed control
board is the faulty one myself.
I'd suggest its more likely to be an active device. You do not mention the
symptoms either.

Brian

--
Brian Gaff -
Note:- In order to reduce spam, any email without 'Brian Gaff'
in the display name may be lost.
Blind user, so no pictures please!
"Borg" wrote in message
...
Borg wrote:
steve auvache wrote:
On Sat, 23 Oct 2010 03:18:19 +0100, Borg wrote:

What is the component arrowed called, I want to buy some to fix this
if I can.

Thanks

http://www.flickr.com/photos/spraypolish/5105918299/

It looks for all the world like a electrolytic capacitor.

Two important things about capacitors you should know.

1/ Its rated voltage. Use one rated at 10V in a 100V system and it
will
give up all of its magic smoke.

2/ It's value. Judging from the size and position I suspect that near
enough is good enough in terms on value.

The numbers look like part/batch numbers. Values and Voltages tend to
be
nice round numbers or significant in electrotricky sums and neither of
those two are.



Its a heater contorl resister of the heater in my Focus if that helps, 4
settings , so I presume that it relates to 3v 6v 9v 12v , or maybe not.



No other marking at all on the part.


Meant to sat the settings are the speed of the fan.

On 23 Oct, 12:57, Borg wrote:
Alan wrote:
In message , Brian Gaff
wrote
I find it hard to believe that *you can know which part of a speed
control
board is the faulty one myself.

The common failure mechanism in a Ford Focus internal cabin air blower
speed control is the failure of the thermal fuse.

There are no active components in the control circuit. The control is
extremely crude, but effective. It is designed with the KISS principle
in mind. With minor variations, other car manufacturers use same design
and have the same failure of the thermal fuse.

In the fastest position the blower motor is connected across the 12V
supply, via a conventional fuse and a four position mechanical switch.

For the three lower speed setting the voltage across the motor is
dropped down via three large wire-wound resistors. A thermal fuse in
series with these resistors stops them catching fire

I'd suggest its more likely to be an active device. You do not mention
the
symptoms either.

I agree it would help to know the exact problem as there could be other
failure mechanisms. All the others are likely to be simple mechanical
failures of a fuse, switch or motor.

If the thermal fuse has failed the question would be why?

Old age and bad luck is one reason.

Another common reasons on a Ford Focus may be a blocked cabin pollen
filter restricting air flow through the motor and the control board
which is bolted into the air flow.

If the cabin pollen filter is replaced the seal on the cover often fails
allowing water to enter the passenger foot well. This water will run
through the motor and onto the control board. On older models, and
perhaps the latest model of the car, *the pollen filter cover forms part
of the windscreen seal. The plastic clips tend to break when the cover
is removed and the seal at the bottom of the windscreen is not soundly
made on re-assembly.

In my experience, a thermal fuse replacement alone fixed the problem for
further 5 to 6 years of my ownership of a car. *On a friend's car the
motor shaft had become rusty and was binding a bit. This was cured by a
thermal fuse replacement and one drop of engine oil, applied with the
drip stick, to the shaft close to each of the motor bearings.

Usdual fault, as stated, filter failing and not being replaced, water
leaking into motor rusting shaft, That has been fixed.

This unit and another has fallen gradually, fist , speed 1 & 2 wouldn't
work, then speed 3 & 4 failed.

Very common fault, on the Focus and Mondao, same unit. Thermal fuse in
engine area is not blowing.

a fine collection of spellings, Sir, and no mistake. Where did you
encounter them, or are they 'your own work'?

Eamo the drunk mick

In message , Borg
wrote

This unit and another has fallen gradually, fist , speed 1 & 2 wouldn't
work, then speed 3 & 4 failed.

A thermal fuse failure results in speeds 1, 2 and 3 not working but
speed 4 working as normal. Two speeds don't gradually die - it's all 3
bottom speeds with a thermal fuse failure.

Speeds 1 and 2 failing is more likely to be the switch itself
mechanically failing or one of the resistors in the green blob failing.

The fact that you lost the fastest speed as well suggests the
conventional fuse in series with the motor has now also blown. The
thermal fuse and resistors play no part in the fastest speed setting.

This failure may be a combination of failures
Switch
Resistor Pack
Motor (conventional) fuse found on one of the fuse panels.



--
Alan
news2009 {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk