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PING : Electronic experts.



 
 
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  #11  
Old October 23rd 10, 09:42 AM posted to uk.rec.motorcycles,uk.tech.digital-tv
Brian Gaff
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 7,824
Default PING : Electronic experts.

I find it hard to believe that you can know which part of a speed control
board is the faulty one myself.
I'd suggest its more likely to be an active device. You do not mention the
symptoms either.

Brian

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Note:- In order to reduce spam, any email without 'Brian Gaff'
in the display name may be lost.
Blind user, so no pictures please!
"Borg" wrote in message
...
Borg wrote:
steve auvache wrote:
On Sat, 23 Oct 2010 03:18:19 +0100, Borg wrote:

What is the component arrowed called, I want to buy some to fix this if
I can.

Thanks

http://www.flickr.com/photos/spraypolish/5105918299/

It looks for all the world like a electrolytic capacitor.

Two important things about capacitors you should know.

1/ Its rated voltage. Use one rated at 10V in a 100V system and it will
give up all of its magic smoke.

2/ It's value. Judging from the size and position I suspect that near
enough is good enough in terms on value.

The numbers look like part/batch numbers. Values and Voltages tend to
be
nice round numbers or significant in electrotricky sums and neither of
those two are.



Its a heater contorl resister of the heater in my Focus if that helps, 4
settings , so I presume that it relates to 3v 6v 9v 12v , or maybe not.



No other marking at all on the part.



Meant to sat the settings are the speed of the fan.



  #12  
Old October 23rd 10, 10:00 AM posted to uk.rec.motorcycles,uk.tech.digital-tv
steve auvache
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 4
Default PING : Electronic experts.

On Sat, 23 Oct 2010 08:39:24 +0100, "Brian Gaff"
wrote:

Obviously I cannot see this, but there is a third thing about electrolytic
capacitors, and that is you need to get them in the right way around or they
tend not only to not like it, but depending on the use, can damage much of
the rest of the equipment if you are not careful.


Yes, yes, as much as we all know you are top posting scum we all know
about putting Electrolytics round the right way but that comes later when
you fix it. First we have to decide what sort of device it is and from
the looks it is close but it turns out that in all likelihood it is a
fuse.
--

steve auvache
  #13  
Old October 23rd 10, 10:23 AM posted to uk.rec.motorcycles,uk.tech.digital-tv
Alan[_4_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 427
Default PING : Electronic experts.

In message , Brian Gaff
wrote
I find it hard to believe that you can know which part of a speed control
board is the faulty one myself.


The common failure mechanism in a Ford Focus internal cabin air blower
speed control is the failure of the thermal fuse.

There are no active components in the control circuit. The control is
extremely crude, but effective. It is designed with the KISS principle
in mind. With minor variations, other car manufacturers use same design
and have the same failure of the thermal fuse.

In the fastest position the blower motor is connected across the 12V
supply, via a conventional fuse and a four position mechanical switch.

For the three lower speed setting the voltage across the motor is
dropped down via three large wire-wound resistors. A thermal fuse in
series with these resistors stops them catching fire

I'd suggest its more likely to be an active device. You do not mention the
symptoms either.


I agree it would help to know the exact problem as there could be other
failure mechanisms. All the others are likely to be simple mechanical
failures of a fuse, switch or motor.

If the thermal fuse has failed the question would be why?

Old age and bad luck is one reason.

Another common reasons on a Ford Focus may be a blocked cabin pollen
filter restricting air flow through the motor and the control board
which is bolted into the air flow.

If the cabin pollen filter is replaced the seal on the cover often fails
allowing water to enter the passenger foot well. This water will run
through the motor and onto the control board. On older models, and
perhaps the latest model of the car, the pollen filter cover forms part
of the windscreen seal. The plastic clips tend to break when the cover
is removed and the seal at the bottom of the windscreen is not soundly
made on re-assembly.

In my experience, a thermal fuse replacement alone fixed the problem for
further 5 to 6 years of my ownership of a car. On a friend's car the
motor shaft had become rusty and was binding a bit. This was cured by a
thermal fuse replacement and one drop of engine oil, applied with the
drip stick, to the shaft close to each of the motor bearings.


--
Alan
news2009 {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk
  #14  
Old October 23rd 10, 11:56 AM posted to uk.rec.motorcycles,uk.tech.digital-tv
Oily
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 1
Default PING : Electronic experts.


"Borg" wrote:

What is the component arrowed called, I want to buy some to fix this if
I can.

A thermal fuse probably; the 216K the temperature at which it gives up and
the 9501 probably a part number

Is there a makers name on it or a logo?


  #15  
Old October 23rd 10, 01:14 PM posted to uk.rec.motorcycles,uk.tech.digital-tv
Brian Gregory [UK]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 418
Default PING : Electronic experts.

"steve auvache" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 23 Oct 2010 08:39:24 +0100, "Brian Gaff"
Yes, yes, as much as we all know you are top posting scum we all know
about putting Electrolytics round the right way but that comes later when
you fix it. First we have to decide what sort of device it is and from
the looks it is close but it turns out that in all likelihood it is a
fuse.


Go away.


  #16  
Old October 23rd 10, 01:27 PM posted to uk.rec.motorcycles,uk.tech.digital-tv
Grimly Curmudgeon
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Posts: 493
Default PING : Electronic experts.

We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the
drugs began to take hold. I remember Borg saying
something like:

What is the component arrowed called, I want to buy some to fix this if
I can.


A better pic would help immeasurably. What markings are on it?
  #17  
Old October 23rd 10, 01:40 PM posted to uk.rec.motorcycles,uk.tech.digital-tv
Catman[_2_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 3
Default PING : Electronic experts.

Oily wrote:
"Borg" wrote:

What is the component arrowed called, I want to buy some to fix this if
I can.

A thermal fuse probably; the 216K the temperature at which it gives up


Would you like to reconsider that?


--
Catman MIB#14 SKoGA#6 TEAR#4 BOTAFOF#38 Apostle#21 COSOC#3
Tyger, Tyger Burning Bright (Remove rust to reply)
116 Giulietta 3.0l Sprint 1.7 GTV TS GT 3.2 V6
Triumph Sprint ST 1050: It's blue, see.
www.cuore-sportivo.co.uk
  #18  
Old October 23rd 10, 01:53 PM posted to uk.rec.motorcycles,uk.tech.digital-tv
rick[_2_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 1
Default PING : Electronic experts.


"Catman" wrote in message
...
Oily wrote:
"Borg" wrote:

What is the component arrowed called, I want to buy some to fix this if
I can.

A thermal fuse probably; the 216K the temperature at which it gives up


Would you like to reconsider that?


Heh. I was thinking -57C was a bit conservative.



--

Rick Brown
Sprint RS 955i


  #19  
Old October 23rd 10, 01:57 PM posted to uk.rec.motorcycles,uk.tech.digital-tv
Borg
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 29
Default PING : Electronic experts.

Alan wrote:
In message , Brian Gaff
wrote
I find it hard to believe that you can know which part of a speed
control
board is the faulty one myself.


The common failure mechanism in a Ford Focus internal cabin air blower
speed control is the failure of the thermal fuse.

There are no active components in the control circuit. The control is
extremely crude, but effective. It is designed with the KISS principle
in mind. With minor variations, other car manufacturers use same design
and have the same failure of the thermal fuse.

In the fastest position the blower motor is connected across the 12V
supply, via a conventional fuse and a four position mechanical switch.

For the three lower speed setting the voltage across the motor is
dropped down via three large wire-wound resistors. A thermal fuse in
series with these resistors stops them catching fire

I'd suggest its more likely to be an active device. You do not mention
the
symptoms either.


I agree it would help to know the exact problem as there could be other
failure mechanisms. All the others are likely to be simple mechanical
failures of a fuse, switch or motor.

If the thermal fuse has failed the question would be why?

Old age and bad luck is one reason.

Another common reasons on a Ford Focus may be a blocked cabin pollen
filter restricting air flow through the motor and the control board
which is bolted into the air flow.

If the cabin pollen filter is replaced the seal on the cover often fails
allowing water to enter the passenger foot well. This water will run
through the motor and onto the control board. On older models, and
perhaps the latest model of the car, the pollen filter cover forms part
of the windscreen seal. The plastic clips tend to break when the cover
is removed and the seal at the bottom of the windscreen is not soundly
made on re-assembly.

In my experience, a thermal fuse replacement alone fixed the problem for
further 5 to 6 years of my ownership of a car. On a friend's car the
motor shaft had become rusty and was binding a bit. This was cured by a
thermal fuse replacement and one drop of engine oil, applied with the
drip stick, to the shaft close to each of the motor bearings.


Usdual fault, as stated, filter failing and not being replaced, water
leaking into motor rusting shaft, That has been fixed.

This unit and another has fallen gradually, fist , speed 1 & 2 wouldn't
work, then speed 3 & 4 failed.

Very common fault, on the Focus and Mondao, same unit. Thermal fuse in
engine area is not blowing.
  #20  
Old October 23rd 10, 02:00 PM posted to uk.rec.motorcycles,uk.tech.digital-tv
Borg
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 29
Default PING : Electronic experts.

Oily wrote:
"Borg" wrote:

What is the component arrowed called, I want to buy some to fix this if
I can.

A thermal fuse probably; the 216K the temperature at which it gives up and
the 9501 probably a part number

Is there a makers name on it or a logo?


Ahh makes sence, no names or anything else on the 'fuse, the photo is a
stock photo the 2 I have here have no markings on the windings.
 




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