![]() |
| If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above. You may have to register before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below. |
|
|||||||
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
|
#1
|
|||
|
|||
|
As topic.
I am sure that someone on here has the info or knows where to point me . 1300 cc 02 Reg Fiesta endura engine. Injection. How do you remove the ignition Coils. "Just unbolt it" it says in the Haynes manual. It is mounted behind the engine under all the injection stuff. The Haynes manual just doesn't mention how to get to it. What to remove or how. It could be me, I must be missing something. Any help welcomed. TIA Gary -- This email is Private and Confidential This e-mail has been virus checked by Mcafee Virus Scan. Telephone calls may be recorded for quality assurance and security purposes. Shopping -- get your hit @ www.asmailorder.co.uk www.asmailorder.com |
|
#2
|
|||
|
|||
|
On 06/10/2010 20:15, Gary wrote:
As topic. I am sure that someone on here has the info or knows where to point me . 1300 cc 02 Reg Fiesta endura engine. Injection. How do you remove the ignition Coils. "Just unbolt it" it says in the Haynes manual. It is mounted behind the engine under all the injection stuff. The Haynes manual just doesn't mention how to get to it. What to remove or how. It could be me, I must be missing something. Any help welcomed. TIA Gary Ahh, Haynes manuals. I can't answer your question, but it it totally typical of Haynes manuals. They all seem to assume you have then engine out of the brand new vehicle, on a bench. "simply undo the four bolts retaining the exhaust manifold" Bwa ha ha. You need to break your arm in 3 places just to be able to touch them, never mind get a tool on them. And even if you could, they will be seized solid and corroded, so they will round off when you use the correct socket. Hammering on the next-size-down socket works, but the head will shear off as soon as you apply any torque. From there, it just goes downhill. -- Ron |
|
#3
|
|||
|
|||
|
"Ron Lowe" wrote in message
... Ahh, Haynes manuals. I can't answer your question, but it it totally typical of Haynes manuals. They all seem to assume you have then engine out of the brand new vehicle, on a bench. "simply undo the four bolts retaining the exhaust manifold" Bwa ha ha. You need to break your arm in 3 places just to be able to touch them, never mind get a tool on them. And even if you could, they will be seized solid and corroded, so they will round off when you use the correct socket. Hammering on the next-size-down socket works, but the head will shear off as soon as you apply any torque. From there, it just goes downhill. I glanced at a Haynes Ford Capri manual is a shop once: it was actually for the US Ford Mercury Capri, left hand drive with air conditioning. And don't forget the infamous, "Re-assemble in reverse order." I'm glad the most complex mechanics I've done is basic servicing on a Honda CB175 and replacing a car battery. -- Max Demian |
|
#4
|
|||
|
|||
|
In article , Gary
scribeth thus As topic. I am sure that someone on here has the info or knows where to point me . 1300 cc 02 Reg Fiesta endura engine. Injection. How do you remove the ignition Coils. "Just unbolt it" it says in the Haynes manual. It is mounted behind the engine under all the injection stuff. The Haynes manual just doesn't mention how to get to it. What to remove or how. It could be me, I must be missing something. Any help welcomed. TIA Gary Try a post over on UK D-I-Y there're very helpful there!..... -- Tony Sayer |
|
#5
|
|||
|
|||
|
"Gary" wrote in message ... As topic. I am sure that someone on here has the info or knows where to point me . 1300 cc 02 Reg Fiesta endura engine. Injection. How do you remove the ignition Coils. "Just unbolt it" it says in the Haynes manual. It is mounted behind the engine under all the injection stuff. The Haynes manual just doesn't mention how to get to it. What to remove or how. It could be me, I must be missing something. Any help welcomed. TIA Gary Symptom of coil failure is heavy mis-firing at wide throttle (could also be a plug or lead breakdown, but most likely the coil). I have replaced the coil pack (probably similar to yours) twice on a 52 Ka Duratec, where it is relatively accessible. It is fixed by four Torx screws, which you can't see on the Ka. The "cheap" one failed after about a year, and the Ford branded one has kept going for 3 years so far. While you are there, you will probably want to replace the plugs and leads (at least one of the latter having been destroyed during removal). It is a good idea to set the gaps on the new plugs at about 90% of the recommended value, thereby reducing the breakdown voltage across the plug electrodes and easing the stress on the internal insulation of the coil unit (and everything else). These coils seem to have been designed with an over-optimistic view of the basic physics of high voltages, and seem much more prone to failure than the old design using a single (much larger) coil and distributor, so anything you can do to reduce the stress on them will be helpful. Good luck! TrevM |
|
#6
|
|||
|
|||
|
"Trev M" wrote in message
... It is a good idea to set the gaps on the new plugs at about 90% of the recommended value, thereby reducing the breakdown voltage across the plug electrodes and easing the stress on the internal insulation of the coil unit (and everything else). These coils seem to have been designed with an over-optimistic view of the basic physics of high voltages, and seem much more prone to failure than the old design using a single (much larger) coil and distributor, so anything you can do to reduce the stress on them will be helpful. A few years back VW reduced to a single supplier of Coil packs as fitted to some Golfs and Passats, then the manufacturer made some minor change to the way the coils were made and the whole lot failed after 10,000 miles or so! -- Michael Chare |
|
#7
|
|||
|
|||
|
In article ,
tony sayer wrote: In article , Gary scribeth thus As topic. I am sure that someone on here has the info or knows where to point me . 1300 cc 02 Reg Fiesta endura engine. Injection. How do you remove the ignition Coils. "Just unbolt it" it says in the Haynes manual. It is mounted behind the engine under all the injection stuff. The Haynes manual just doesn't mention how to get to it. What to remove or how. It could be me, I must be missing something. Any help welcomed. TIA Gary Try a post over on UK D-I-Y there're very helpful there!..... uk.rec.cars.maintenance might be a better bet. So saying, on most cars COP are accessible after removing any engine cover. You don't usually have to remove any of the 'injection stuff'. -- *If you lived in your car, you'd be home by now * Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
|
#8
|
|||
|
|||
|
"Trev M" wrote in message ... "Gary" wrote in message ... As topic. I am sure that someone on here has the info or knows where to point me . 1300 cc 02 Reg Fiesta endura engine. Injection. How do you remove the ignition Coils. "Just unbolt it" it says in the Haynes manual. It is mounted behind the engine under all the injection stuff. The Haynes manual just doesn't mention how to get to it. What to remove or how. It could be me, I must be missing something. Any help welcomed. TIA Gary Symptom of coil failure is heavy mis-firing at wide throttle (could also be a plug or lead breakdown, but most likely the coil). I have replaced the coil pack (probably similar to yours) twice on a 52 Ka Duratec, where it is relatively accessible. It is fixed by four Torx screws, which you can't see on the Ka. The "cheap" one failed after about a year, and the Ford branded one has kept going for 3 years so far. While you are there, you will probably want to replace the plugs and leads (at least one of the latter having been destroyed during removal). It is a good idea to set the gaps on the new plugs at about 90% of the recommended value, thereby reducing the breakdown voltage across the plug electrodes and easing the stress on the internal insulation of the coil unit (and everything else). These coils seem to have been designed with an over-optimistic view of the basic physics of high voltages, and seem much more prone to failure than the old design using a single (much larger) coil and distributor, so anything you can do to reduce the stress on them will be helpful. Good luck! TrevM That is the symptom I have got but i cannot get to the pack. I hoped I was doing something wrong and there is an easy way to get to it which I had just not sussed out. Why bury it that way? On the zetec it is right in front of you. I cannot even see how to get the connector off. I did think of mounting the new coil in an easy to get to place but without the low tension connection no hope. Anyone know how to remove the connector at fingertip, in reverse and without seeing it. ( Seriously, I would like to remove the connector but cannot feel the release tag/ clip as I don't know what I am feeling for) Cheers Gary |
|
#9
|
|||
|
|||
|
"tony sayer" wrote in message ... In article , Gary scribeth thus As topic. I am sure that someone on here has the info or knows where to point me . 1300 cc 02 Reg Fiesta endura engine. Injection. How do you remove the ignition Coils. "Just unbolt it" it says in the Haynes manual. It is mounted behind the engine under all the injection stuff. The Haynes manual just doesn't mention how to get to it. What to remove or how. It could be me, I must be missing something. Any help welcomed. I rebuilt a Fiesta years ago but it won't be like yours now I shouldn't think. What I do know though is that these instructions in the Haynes manuals often do just say such daft things, and you end up having to be very good at modifying spanners and sockets and socket sets, and very handy at working back to front and upside down standing on your head with a mirror and four spare hands. (On an old Micra that needed a new timing chain, the manual just said 'undo the crankshaft pulley - but the nut/bolt end was hidden in a recess in the chassis. I had to take off an engine mounting and jack the car up and lever the engine down before I could get a spanner on to 'remove nut'!) I'm sure they often write this stuff when they have the engine brand new on a bench out of the car. You may find that enough lateral thinking will help you get at this, or even bypass it and fit one with longer leads in a more accessible position. Good luck, S |
|
#10
|
|||
|
|||
|
On Wed, 6 Oct 2010 23:24:45 UTC, "Gary"
wrote: Can you get at it from underneath? -- Regards Dave Saville |
| Thread Tools | |
| Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads
|
||||
| Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
| Totally Off-Topic, but still TV! | John[_33_] | UK digital tv | 0 | July 21st 10 07:23 PM |
| Totally off-topic | Graham.[_3_] | UK digital tv | 5 | June 13th 09 06:16 PM |
| Here's a new one (Danger: Partly Totally Off Topic) | Bill Wright | UK digital tv | 8 | January 7th 07 05:15 PM |
| Rigger's Diary: totally off topic | Bill | UK digital tv | 18 | March 12th 04 11:53 AM |
| Boston area Comcast lineup changed (a LOT) but TiVo lineup hasn't changed | News Reader | Tivo personal television | 14 | September 26th 03 11:48 PM |