aquos problems, any ideas?

Hi there all - I have a Sharp Aquos Sharp Aquos LCD TV, Model number
lc32bd6x that's been causing a few probs -

When it's first turned on 9 times out of 10 I am met with a black screen,
the backlights are all operational but I have no video, audio is fine.

On the odd occasion I will get the program select display but rather than
being in the top right of the screen it will appear half way down on the
left before it begins to 'bleed' down the screen then slowly fade away
leaving a black screen.

After 10-15 minutes of having the TV on occasionally the picture will spring
to life and the TV performs perfectly until it's turned off. Turing it
back on within 20 minutes or so, the TV operates as normal - if I leave it
longer we have to go through the 'warm up' period again..

On other occasions after the 10-15 minute warm up I may have a number of
different things occur such as: the screen will start dark vertical diffused
green bands on the right side of the screen which slowly bleed across the
whole screen ti'll I have a lurid green screen (like this
http://img144.imageshack.us/img144/206/cimg4494ol0.jpg ) ; other times
'blotches' of colour may form in random spots on the screen and slowly fade
away ; sometimes a frozen image may come on either the lower or upper part
of the screen, remain for 4-5 seconds then again fade to black ; vertical
streaks may occur in the top 10% of the screen exhibiting motion that
suggest some signal procesing is going on (like this
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_3UGUrq7FLsE/SY...s720/photo.jpg )

I've had the back off and checked the PS and everything looks fine,
backlight is fine, no bulging caps, all connectors appear firm - has anyone
encountered similar problems, knows of a solution or can point me in the
right direction i'd appreciate it!

I didn't get to stripping out or examining the control board, figuring that
I'd probably need more of an idea what I should be looking for before I went
there

thanks

On Jul 1, 10:41*pm, "k" wrote:
Hi there all - I have a Sharp Aquos Sharp Aquos LCD TV, Model number
lc32bd6x that's been causing a few probs -

When it's first turned on 9 times out of 10 I am met with a black screen,
the backlights are all operational but I have no video, audio is fine.

On the odd occasion I will get the program select display but rather than
being in the top right of the screen it will appear half way down on the
left before it begins to 'bleed' down the screen then slowly fade away
leaving a black screen.

After 10-15 minutes of having the TV on occasionally the picture will spring
to life and the TV performs perfectly until it's turned off. * Turing it
back on within 20 minutes or so, the TV operates as normal - if I leave it
longer we have to go through the 'warm up' period again..

On other occasions after the 10-15 minute warm up I may have a number of
different things occur such as: the screen will start dark vertical diffused
green bands on the right side of the screen which slowly bleed across the
whole screen ti'll I have a lurid green screen (like thishttp://img144.imageshack.us/img144/206/cimg4494ol0.jpg) ; other times
'blotches' of colour may form in random spots on the screen and slowly fade
away ; sometimes a frozen image may come on either the lower or upper part
of the screen, remain for 4-5 seconds then again fade to black ; vertical
streaks may occur in the top 10% of the screen exhibiting motion that
suggest some signal procesing is going on (like thishttp://lh6.ggpht.com/_3UGUrq7FLsE/SYOdUhM8TCI/AAAAAAAAAE4/8Lgk951o8FU...)

I've had the back off and checked the PS and everything looks fine,
backlight is fine, no bulging caps, all connectors appear firm - has anyone
encountered similar problems, knows of a solution or can point me in the
right direction i'd appreciate it!

I didn't get to stripping out or examining the control board, figuring that
I'd probably need more of an idea what I should be looking for before I went
there

thanks

I would bet money on bad electrolytic capacitors. When they get like
yours, they don't perform properly until they warm up. They will only
get worse. ALSO, they often (but not _always_) bleed out the internal
acids onto the PC board(s). If cleaned off early it may only be
cosmetic but if left to 'fester' it will remove the copper traces from
the board and damage the plated through holes. This is a VERY COMMON
problem after a few years. You _might_ see bulging caps and those
certainly must be replaced and the board cleaned but you must also
check the non bulging ones because they may be bad also. The gadget
you need is an ESR meter that can check the caps in circuit. Prices
vary from $50 to several hundred. A good soldering iron is a must and
don't just buy the cheapest junk capacitors. Panasonic FM and FC are
very good and in switching power supplies Nichicon HM and HN series
excel for through hole. For surface mount I use Panasonic FK series.
DigiKey and Mouser are good sources. Yes, I've installed thousands
over the last 5 years in broadcast gear.

G²

"G-squared" wrote in message
...
On Jul 1, 10:41 pm, "k" wrote:
Hi there all - I have a Sharp Aquos Sharp Aquos LCD TV, Model number
lc32bd6x that's been causing a few probs -

When it's first turned on 9 times out of 10 I am met with a black screen,
the backlights are all operational but I have no video, audio is fine.

On the odd occasion I will get the program select display but rather than
being in the top right of the screen it will appear half way down on the
left before it begins to 'bleed' down the screen then slowly fade away
leaving a black screen.

After 10-15 minutes of having the TV on occasionally the picture will
spring
to life and the TV performs perfectly until it's turned off. Turing it
back on within 20 minutes or so, the TV operates as normal - if I leave it
longer we have to go through the 'warm up' period again..

On other occasions after the 10-15 minute warm up I may have a number of
different things occur such as: the screen will start dark vertical
diffused
green bands on the right side of the screen which slowly bleed across the
whole screen ti'll I have a lurid green screen (like
thishttp://img144.imageshack.us/img144/206/cimg4494ol0.jpg) ; other times
'blotches' of colour may form in random spots on the screen and slowly
fade
away ; sometimes a frozen image may come on either the lower or upper part
of the screen, remain for 4-5 seconds then again fade to black ; vertical
streaks may occur in the top 10% of the screen exhibiting motion that
suggest some signal procesing is going on (like
thishttp://lh6.ggpht.com/_3UGUrq7FLsE/SYOdUhM8TCI/AAAAAAAAAE4/8Lgk951o8FU...)

I've had the back off and checked the PS and everything looks fine,
backlight is fine, no bulging caps, all connectors appear firm - has
anyone
encountered similar problems, knows of a solution or can point me in the
right direction i'd appreciate it!

I didn't get to stripping out or examining the control board, figuring
that
I'd probably need more of an idea what I should be looking for before I
went
there

thanks

I would bet money on bad electrolytic capacitors. When they get like
yours, they don't perform properly until they warm up. They will only
get worse. ALSO, they often (but not _always_) bleed out the internal
acids onto the PC board(s). If cleaned off early it may only be
cosmetic but if left to 'fester' it will remove the copper traces from
the board and damage the plated through holes. This is a VERY COMMON
problem after a few years. You _might_ see bulging caps and those
certainly must be replaced and the board cleaned but you must also
check the non bulging ones because they may be bad also. The gadget
you need is an ESR meter that can check the caps in circuit. Prices
vary from $50 to several hundred. A good soldering iron is a must and
don't just buy the cheapest junk capacitors. Panasonic FM and FC are
very good and in switching power supplies Nichicon HM and HN series
excel for through hole. For surface mount I use Panasonic FK series.
DigiKey and Mouser are good sources. Yes, I've installed thousands
over the last 5 years in broadcast gear.



I just changed 4 failed caps, 3 bulging, one not in a 2 yo LG Flatron LCD
monitor, all checked as stuffed on my capacitance meter after I pulled them
... but the failure on those was pretty clear with a dead display initially,
then a dead backlight a few weeks down the track. Maybe I should have dug
deeper and peeked at the control board to see if there were any probs on
that, thanks

time to build that ESR meter i've been putting off building

On Jul 2, 2:46*am, "k" wrote:
"G-squared" wrote in message

...
On Jul 1, 10:41 pm, "k" wrote:





Hi there all - I have a Sharp Aquos Sharp Aquos LCD TV, Model number
lc32bd6x that's been causing a few probs -

When it's first turned on 9 times out of 10 I am met with a black screen,
the backlights are all operational but I have no video, audio is fine.

On the odd occasion I will get the program select display but rather than
being in the top right of the screen it will appear half way down on the
left before it begins to 'bleed' down the screen then slowly fade away
leaving a black screen.

After 10-15 minutes of having the TV on occasionally the picture will
spring
to life and the TV performs perfectly until it's turned off. Turing it
back on within 20 minutes or so, the TV operates as normal - if I leave it
longer we have to go through the 'warm up' period again..

On other occasions after the 10-15 minute warm up I may have a number of
different things occur such as: the screen will start dark vertical
diffused
green bands on the right side of the screen which slowly bleed across the
whole screen ti'll I have a lurid green screen (like
thishttp://img144.imageshack.us/img144/206/cimg4494ol0.jpg) ; other times
'blotches' of colour may form in random spots on the screen and slowly
fade
away ; sometimes a frozen image may come on either the lower or upper part
of the screen, remain for 4-5 seconds then again fade to black ; vertical
streaks may occur in the top 10% of the screen exhibiting motion that
suggest some signal procesing is going on (like
thishttp://lh6.ggpht.com/_3UGUrq7FLsE/SYOdUhM8TCI/AAAAAAAAAE4/8Lgk951o8FU...)

I've had the back off and checked the PS and everything looks fine,
backlight is fine, no bulging caps, all connectors appear firm - has
anyone
encountered similar problems, knows of a solution or can point me in the
right direction i'd appreciate it!

I didn't get to stripping out or examining the control board, figuring
that
I'd probably need more of an idea what I should be looking for before I
went
there

thanks

I would bet money on bad electrolytic capacitors. When they get like
yours, they don't perform properly until they warm up. They will only
get worse. ALSO, they often (but not _always_) bleed out the internal
acids onto the PC board(s). If cleaned off early it may only be
cosmetic but if left to 'fester' it will remove the copper traces from
the board and damage the plated through holes. This is a VERY COMMON
problem after a few years. You _might_ see bulging caps and those
certainly must be replaced and the board cleaned but you must also
check the non bulging ones because they may be bad also. The gadget
you need is an ESR meter that can check the caps in circuit. Prices
vary from $50 to several hundred. A good soldering iron is a must and
don't just buy the cheapest junk capacitors. Panasonic FM and FC are
very good and in switching power supplies Nichicon HM and HN series
excel for through hole. For surface mount I use Panasonic FK series.
DigiKey and Mouser are good sources. Yes, I've installed thousands
over the last 5 years in broadcast gear.

I just changed 4 failed caps, 3 bulging, one not in a 2 yo LG Flatron LCD
monitor, all checked as stuffed on my capacitance meter after I pulled them
.. but the failure on those was pretty clear with a dead display initially,
then a dead backlight a few weeks down the track. *Maybe I should have dug
deeper and peeked at the control board to see if there were any probs on
that, thanks

time to build that ESR meter i've been putting off building

http://www.matelectronics.com/acatal..._Other_61.html

If you scroll down this page you'll find a cheapy ESR meter for $50,
the MUL3333. I have one (and 2 more at my new job). It isn't as slick
as the Capacitor Wizard ($230) I had at my last job but it gets the
job done. The Capacitor Wizard scale on the meter agrees with a
resistor meaning if you put a 1 or 2 ohm resistor across the leads,
the meter will read that value. The MUL3333 is just plain wrong BUT
the meter deflection between the units is identical for a given test
condition. Keep in mind there are some places where 'good' (either
meter) will NOT be good enough. The output filters on a switching
supply MUST be perfect. Any capacitor INSIDE a feedback loop which
Sony liked to do with the vertical output of some CRT sets must be
perfect.

BTW I've been toying with the idea of taking a picture of the
Capacitor Wizard meter, photo shopping the picture to the right size
and printing it for the MUL3333.

I almost forgot. BEWARE of 'lytics with small value ceramics in
parallel. The ceramic will measure good while the 'lytic may be bad.
The only way to verify them is to remove and test.

G²

On Jul 2, 8:54*am, G-squared wrote:
On Jul 2, 2:46*am, "k" wrote:



"G-squared" wrote in message

...
On Jul 1, 10:41 pm, "k" wrote:

Hi there all - I have a Sharp Aquos Sharp Aquos LCD TV, Model number
lc32bd6x that's been causing a few probs -

When it's first turned on 9 times out of 10 I am met with a black screen,
the backlights are all operational but I have no video, audio is fine..

On the odd occasion I will get the program select display but rather than
being in the top right of the screen it will appear half way down on the
left before it begins to 'bleed' down the screen then slowly fade away
leaving a black screen.

After 10-15 minutes of having the TV on occasionally the picture will
spring
to life and the TV performs perfectly until it's turned off. Turing it
back on within 20 minutes or so, the TV operates as normal - if I leave it
longer we have to go through the 'warm up' period again..

On other occasions after the 10-15 minute warm up I may have a number of
different things occur such as: the screen will start dark vertical
diffused
green bands on the right side of the screen which slowly bleed across the
whole screen ti'll I have a lurid green screen (like
thishttp://img144.imageshack.us/img144/206/cimg4494ol0.jpg) ; other times
'blotches' of colour may form in random spots on the screen and slowly
fade
away ; sometimes a frozen image may come on either the lower or upper part
of the screen, remain for 4-5 seconds then again fade to black ; vertical
streaks may occur in the top 10% of the screen exhibiting motion that
suggest some signal procesing is going on (like
thishttp://lh6.ggpht.com/_3UGUrq7FLsE/SYOdUhM8TCI/AAAAAAAAAE4/8Lgk951o8FU...)

I've had the back off and checked the PS and everything looks fine,
backlight is fine, no bulging caps, all connectors appear firm - has
anyone
encountered similar problems, knows of a solution or can point me in the
right direction i'd appreciate it!

I didn't get to stripping out or examining the control board, figuring
that
I'd probably need more of an idea what I should be looking for before I
went
there

thanks

I would bet money on bad electrolytic capacitors. When they get like
yours, they don't perform properly until they warm up. They will only
get worse. ALSO, they often (but not _always_) bleed out the internal
acids onto the PC board(s). If cleaned off early it may only be
cosmetic but if left to 'fester' it will remove the copper traces from
the board and damage the plated through holes. This is a VERY COMMON
problem after a few years. You _might_ see bulging caps and those
certainly must be replaced and the board cleaned but you must also
check the non bulging ones because they may be bad also. The gadget
you need is an ESR meter that can check the caps in circuit. Prices
vary from $50 to several hundred. A good soldering iron is a must and
don't just buy the cheapest junk capacitors. Panasonic FM and FC are
very good and in switching power supplies Nichicon HM and HN series
excel for through hole. For surface mount I use Panasonic FK series.
DigiKey and Mouser are good sources. Yes, I've installed thousands
over the last 5 years in broadcast gear.

I just changed 4 failed caps, 3 bulging, one not in a 2 yo LG Flatron LCD
monitor, all checked as stuffed on my capacitance meter after I pulled them
.. but the failure on those was pretty clear with a dead display initially,
then a dead backlight a few weeks down the track. *Maybe I should have dug
deeper and peeked at the control board to see if there were any probs on
that, thanks

time to build that ESR meter i've been putting off building

http://www.matelectronics.com/acatal...Test_Equipment...

If you scroll down this page you'll find a cheapy ESR meter for $50,
the MUL3333. I have one (and 2 more at my new job). It isn't as slick
as the Capacitor Wizard ($230) I had at my last job but it gets the
job done. The Capacitor Wizard scale on the meter agrees with a
resistor meaning if you put a 1 or 2 ohm resistor across the leads,
the meter will read that value. The MUL3333 is just plain wrong BUT
the meter deflection between the units is identical for a given test
condition. Keep in mind there are some places where 'good' (either
meter) will NOT be good enough. The output filters on a switching
supply MUST be perfect. Any capacitor INSIDE a feedback loop which
Sony liked to do with the vertical output of some CRT sets must be
perfect.

BTW I've been toying with the idea of taking a picture of the
Capacitor Wizard meter, photo shopping the picture to the right size
and printing it for the MUL3333.

I almost forgot. BEWARE of 'lytics with small value ceramics in
parallel. The ceramic will measure good while the 'lytic may be bad.
The only way to verify them is to remove and test.

G²

So after complaining about the MUL3333 ESR meter I went in to work and
got out 3 resistors of 1, 2 and 3 ohms and checked the 2 meters. Both
are correct so I apologize.

G²

"G-squared" wrote in message
...
On Jul 2, 8:54 am, G-squared wrote:
On Jul 2, 2:46 am, "k" wrote:



"G-squared" wrote in message

...
On Jul 1, 10:41 pm, "k" wrote:

Hi there all - I have a Sharp Aquos Sharp Aquos LCD TV, Model number
lc32bd6x that's been causing a few probs -

When it's first turned on 9 times out of 10 I am met with a black
screen,
the backlights are all operational but I have no video, audio is fine.

On the odd occasion I will get the program select display but rather
than
being in the top right of the screen it will appear half way down on
the
left before it begins to 'bleed' down the screen then slowly fade away
leaving a black screen.

After 10-15 minutes of having the TV on occasionally the picture will
spring
to life and the TV performs perfectly until it's turned off. Turing it
back on within 20 minutes or so, the TV operates as normal - if I
leave it
longer we have to go through the 'warm up' period again..

On other occasions after the 10-15 minute warm up I may have a number
of
different things occur such as: the screen will start dark vertical
diffused
green bands on the right side of the screen which slowly bleed across
the
whole screen ti'll I have a lurid green screen (like
thishttp://img144.imageshack.us/img144/206/cimg4494ol0.jpg) ; other
times
'blotches' of colour may form in random spots on the screen and slowly
fade
away ; sometimes a frozen image may come on either the lower or upper
part
of the screen, remain for 4-5 seconds then again fade to black ;
vertical
streaks may occur in the top 10% of the screen exhibiting motion that
suggest some signal procesing is going on (like
thishttp://lh6.ggpht.com/_3UGUrq7FLsE/SYOdUhM8TCI/AAAAAAAAAE4/8Lgk951o8FU...)

I've had the back off and checked the PS and everything looks fine,
backlight is fine, no bulging caps, all connectors appear firm - has
anyone
encountered similar problems, knows of a solution or can point me in
the
right direction i'd appreciate it!

I didn't get to stripping out or examining the control board, figuring
that
I'd probably need more of an idea what I should be looking for before
I
went
there

thanks

I would bet money on bad electrolytic capacitors. When they get like
yours, they don't perform properly until they warm up. They will only
get worse. ALSO, they often (but not _always_) bleed out the internal
acids onto the PC board(s). If cleaned off early it may only be
cosmetic but if left to 'fester' it will remove the copper traces from
the board and damage the plated through holes. This is a VERY COMMON
problem after a few years. You _might_ see bulging caps and those
certainly must be replaced and the board cleaned but you must also
check the non bulging ones because they may be bad also. The gadget
you need is an ESR meter that can check the caps in circuit. Prices
vary from $50 to several hundred. A good soldering iron is a must and
don't just buy the cheapest junk capacitors. Panasonic FM and FC are
very good and in switching power supplies Nichicon HM and HN series
excel for through hole. For surface mount I use Panasonic FK series.
DigiKey and Mouser are good sources. Yes, I've installed thousands
over the last 5 years in broadcast gear.

I just changed 4 failed caps, 3 bulging, one not in a 2 yo LG Flatron
LCD
monitor, all checked as stuffed on my capacitance meter after I pulled
them
.. but the failure on those was pretty clear with a dead display
initially,
then a dead backlight a few weeks down the track. Maybe I should have
dug
deeper and peeked at the control board to see if there were any probs on
that, thanks

time to build that ESR meter i've been putting off building

http://www.matelectronics.com/acatal...Test_Equipment...

If you scroll down this page you'll find a cheapy ESR meter for $50,
the MUL3333. I have one (and 2 more at my new job). It isn't as slick
as the Capacitor Wizard ($230) I had at my last job but it gets the
job done. The Capacitor Wizard scale on the meter agrees with a
resistor meaning if you put a 1 or 2 ohm resistor across the leads,
the meter will read that value. The MUL3333 is just plain wrong BUT
the meter deflection between the units is identical for a given test
condition. Keep in mind there are some places where 'good' (either
meter) will NOT be good enough. The output filters on a switching
supply MUST be perfect. Any capacitor INSIDE a feedback loop which
Sony liked to do with the vertical output of some CRT sets must be
perfect.

BTW I've been toying with the idea of taking a picture of the
Capacitor Wizard meter, photo shopping the picture to the right size
and printing it for the MUL3333.

I almost forgot. BEWARE of 'lytics with small value ceramics in
parallel. The ceramic will measure good while the 'lytic may be bad.
The only way to verify them is to remove and test.

G²

So after complaining about the MUL3333 ESR meter I went in to work and
got out 3 resistors of 1, 2 and 3 ohms and checked the 2 meters. Both
are correct so I apologize.


all appreciated, thanks =)