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#1
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I have a Nintendo Wii which does not drive the pin-8 select pin on a SCART.
It's otherwise a standard RGB wired cable. Is there any simple way to fake/drive pin-8 using a SCART socket/plug plus a few components? Thanks, Paul DS. |
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#2
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"Paul D.Smith" wrote in message ... I have a Nintendo Wii which does not drive the pin-8 select pin on a SCART. It's otherwise a standard RGB wired cable. Is there any simple way to fake/drive pin-8 using a SCART socket/plug plus a few components? Thanks, Paul DS. I wired one of these up myself once - I purchased a battery holder for a 6v lighter battery, soldered the negative power to the SCART lead earth and the positive first to a simple push-button 'door-bell' switch and from there to pin 8. Pushing the switch made the TV switch to the SCART socket.. However this was only needed because the crazy Toshiba CRT I was using had no method of manually selecting an input - surely there are no such models around now? |
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#3
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"GTS" wrote in message
... "Paul D.Smith" wrote in message ... I have a Nintendo Wii which does not drive the pin-8 select pin on a SCART. It's otherwise a standard RGB wired cable. Is there any simple way to fake/drive pin-8 using a SCART socket/plug plus a few components? Thanks, Paul DS. I wired one of these up myself once - I purchased a battery holder for a 6v lighter battery, soldered the negative power to the SCART lead earth and the positive first to a simple push-button 'door-bell' switch and from there to pin 8. Pushing the switch made the TV switch to the SCART socket.. However this was only needed because the crazy Toshiba CRT I was using had no method of manually selecting an input - surely there are no such models around now? I was hoping there might be a more automatic method, perhaps drawing power off the various other lines available in the SCART. It's an interesting idea though and far simpler than the hoops I sometimes have to go through at present. I suppose I need to take a good look at the Wii SCART socket and see which pins are actually present and wired up - if it's possible to tell Paul DS |
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#4
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"Paul D.Smith" wrote in message ... "GTS" wrote in message ... "Paul D.Smith" wrote in message ... I have a Nintendo Wii which does not drive the pin-8 select pin on a SCART. It's otherwise a standard RGB wired cable. Is there any simple way to fake/drive pin-8 using a SCART socket/plug plus a few components? Thanks, Paul DS. I wired one of these up myself once - I purchased a battery holder for a 6v lighter battery, soldered the negative power to the SCART lead earth and the positive first to a simple push-button 'door-bell' switch and from there to pin 8. Pushing the switch made the TV switch to the SCART socket.. However this was only needed because the crazy Toshiba CRT I was using had no method of manually selecting an input - surely there are no such models around now? I was hoping there might be a more automatic method, perhaps drawing power off the various other lines available in the SCART. It's an interesting idea though and far simpler than the hoops I sometimes have to go through at present. I suppose I need to take a good look at the Wii SCART socket and see which pins are actually present and wired up - if it's possible to tell This gives quite a good description: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/SCART It seems pin 8 needs 6-12V but I don't think any of the other pins have that sort of voltage level. Whatever you, it might still involve some sort of manual intervention, so you might as well select this input using the TV remote. -- Bartc |
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#5
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In article , Paul D.Smith wrote:
I have a Nintendo Wii which does not drive the pin-8 select pin on a SCART. It's otherwise a standard RGB wired cable. Is there any simple way to fake/drive pin-8 using a SCART socket/plug plus a few components? Yes, you need a 12V battery, and if you're feeling safety-conscious, a 10K standoff resistor. I made a BNC to SCART forced-input adaptor once using one of those tiny 12V batteries they use in car keyfobs, and built the battery into the plug. I don't anticipate it will ever need changing, as the Pin 8 input hardly draws any current. Lower voltages will work, but 12V is needed to ensure it switches to widescreen. If you don't want to remove the SCART plug, I don't see any reason why you couldn't extend the wire to an external 12V source with a switch. Rod. -- Virtual Access V6.3 free usenet/email software from http://sourceforge.net/projects/virtual-access/ |
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#6
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This gives quite a good description:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/SCART It seems pin 8 needs 6-12V but I don't think any of the other pins have that sort of voltage level. Whatever you, it might still involve some sort of manual intervention, so you might as well select this input using the TV remote. Oh well. I actually run the Wii through a Humax PVR and switching sources requires me to turn the blasted thing on which is why I want to do this but it seems that either "12V + button" or " live with it" are the ways to go for now. Thanks, Paul DS |
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#7
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Roderick Stewart wrote:
In article , Paul D.Smith wrote: I have a Nintendo Wii which does not drive the pin-8 select pin on a SCART. It's otherwise a standard RGB wired cable. Is there any simple way to fake/drive pin-8 using a SCART socket/plug plus a few components? Yes, you need a 12V battery, and if you're feeling safety-conscious, a 10K standoff resistor. I made a BNC to SCART forced-input adaptor once using one of those tiny 12V batteries they use in car keyfobs, and built the battery into the plug. I don't anticipate it will ever need changing, as the Pin 8 input hardly draws any current. Lower voltages will work, but 12V is needed to ensure it switches to widescreen. If you don't want to remove the SCART plug, I don't see any reason why you couldn't extend the wire to an external 12V source with a switch. Rod. I think you will find that 6v (4.5-7v) switches to widescreen, but yes a 10K resistor would be a safer option as you say. For the others mentioning using other scart sockets to drive it, TV scarts are normally 'control inputs' so have no output voltages. Scarts sockets, while bi-direction for CVBS and audio, are directional for control and S-video/RGB signals. -- Tony |
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#8
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In message , Paul D.Smith
writes I was hoping there might be a more automatic method, perhaps drawing power off the various other lines available in the SCART. It's an interesting idea though and far simpler than the hoops I sometimes have to go through at present. LM1881 or EL4581 set up as the app note wiht the frame sync output I suppose I need to take a good look at the Wii SCART socket and see which pins are actually present and wired up - if it's possible to tell Paul DS -- Clint Sharp |
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#9
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In message , Paul D.Smith
writes Oh well. I actually run the Wii through a Humax PVR and switching sources requires me to turn the blasted thing on which is why I want to do this but it seems that either "12V + button" or " live with it" are the ways to go for now. 555 CMOS timer attached to the frame sync line, delay set so that the output never goes low as long as the frame pulse arrives. Feed from a tiny car alarm fob 12v battery. Only snag, if you've never built stuff like that before it's going to be 'fun' and it'll confuse the hell out of you when the battery runs out because you'll have forgotten all about it ;-) Thanks, Paul DS -- Clint Sharp |
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#10
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"Clint Sharp" wrote in message
... In message , Paul D.Smith writes Oh well. I actually run the Wii through a Humax PVR and switching sources requires me to turn the blasted thing on which is why I want to do this but it seems that either "12V + button" or " live with it" are the ways to go for now. 555 CMOS timer attached to the frame sync line, delay set so that the output never goes low as long as the frame pulse arrives. Feed from a tiny car alarm fob 12v battery. Only snag, if you've never built stuff like that before it's going to be 'fun' and it'll confuse the hell out of you when the battery runs out because you'll have forgotten all about it ;-) Thanks, Paul DS There's something to go for Christmas. And no more confusing than when I get a picture but no sound, which is what I sometimes get currently! Paul DS. |
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