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#11
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Java Jive wrote:
I second most of the other suggestions. When I drilled through for my satellite feed, I used a 10x400mm masonry bit to drill the hole. Bill says you should start the hole from the outside in a mortar joint, and it is often suggested that the hole should slope slightly upwards as it goes inwards, so that water will tend to run out of rather than into it. It should also be sealed once the cable is fitted. Yes, a straightened coat hanger can be good but it may be worth a little time ensuring that it is absolutely straight, otherwise it tends to snag on things. The bits where the ends of the wire were twisted together to form the hanger can be particularly irritating! I once used a vice and rolled the wire about on a concrete floor methodically straightening every kink, hammering them straight if necessary. It was the best pull-rod I ever had. I kept it for years. Finally I lent it to a workman who nicked it! The b*stard! Unsurprisingly, as the OP didn't ask it, no-one here has mentioned the vertical problem. My 80s house has plasterboarding on mostly vertical slats, so cables can be dropped down vertically from the attic. The easiest thing is if there is an existing cable, and it's *loose*! I suspect when cheapo houses like mine were built, the cabling is either temporarily fixed in place with dabs of mortar or were the victims of sloppy brickies or plasterers. Whatever the explanation, when I tried to use the existing aerial lead to pull through the CT100 double-insulated replacement, it offered resistance, I tried to persuade it by wriggling it about, twisting it a bit, etc. Finally I had to just try pulling harder and it broke. So it was Plan B. Plan B is an old trick of mine, an old steel 4m tape measure blade. Once the right-angled stub was removed from the end, it was perfect. Though, of course, without the stub, I needed to be careful about letting go of the end and having the rule disappear up its own fundament. Finally, I removed it from the casing for good! A rule has lateral strength in one direction but weakness in the other - I mean it tends to bend easily in the flat direction but not the other, but In the confines of the cavity, it can even be persuaded to remain upright when being pushed through from below, though it usually takes a few goes. Of course, it's usually easier to drop through from above. Having lateral strength in the one direction, it can even be angled to a certain extent. 4m is enough to get from floor to floor. If I need to go the full height of the house, I try and find an existing socket on the top floor as a mid -point. On Tue, 16 Sep 2008 06:56:24 +0100, Geoff Lane wrote: I live in a property that has a cavity wall. If I want to feed some aerial cable through the double wall is there a suggestion or tool to get the cable through both walls. Geoff Lane http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/FXCRSD.html I use these and can fish 2 shotgun cables from a 16mm hole drilled diagonally upwards into the cavity. If the cavity wall is open at the top, they push right into the roofspace even on 2 story buildings. Glenn... -- Glenn Millar - TV Aerials www.glennmillar.plus.com http://tinyurl.com/glennmillar-tvaerials |
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#12
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Price (ex vat) FX CRSD Super Deluxe Cable Rod Set 58.50
Blimey, at that price I'd expect at least that they'd find the G-spot! On Tue, 16 Sep 2008 21:15:42 +0100, Glenn Millar wrote: http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/FXCRSD.html I use these and can fish 2 shotgun cables from a 16mm hole drilled diagonally upwards into the cavity. If the cavity wall is open at the top, they push right into the roofspace even on 2 story buildings. Glenn... |
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#13
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I live in a property that has a cavity wall.
If I want to feed some aerial cable through the double wall is there a suggestion or tool to get the cable through both walls. Geoff Lane http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/FXCRSD.html I use these and can fish 2 shotgun cables from a 16mm hole drilled diagonally upwards into the cavity. If the cavity wall is open at the top, they push right into the roofspace even on 2 story buildings. Glenn... Even past injected cavity wall insulation;!?.... -- Tony Sayer |
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#14
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Geoff Lane wrote:
I live in a property that has a cavity wall. If I want to feed some aerial cable through the double wall is there a suggestion or tool to get the cable through both walls. Geoff Lane Thanks folks, loads of useful suggestions. Geoff Lane |
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#15
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"Geoff Lane" wrote in message ... Geoff Lane wrote: I live in a property that has a cavity wall. I have several ways of dealing with this, depending on the hole in question. Almost always it is easy to just push the cable through. Cut the end diagonally and be prepared to turn the cable and try again. If an obstruction is met do not push hard. Retract, turn, and try again, gently. This is a skill, but it can be acquired. A single strand of lashing wire pulled tight across a curved surface will become fairly rigid and straight, and can often fiddle its way through a hole that has loose debris in it. I have some lengths of 3mm dia high tensile wire (actually some offcuts from a suspension bridge cable, courtesy of British Ropes). With difficulty I have made eyes in these and they will push through most things and bring the cable along as well. I also have some old radio-telephone aerials which I use in much the same way. Blakes make tubes for the purpose. It is possible to draw a thin wire back through the hole by attaching it to the business end of an HDS masonry drill. Sounds impossible but the cutting edge is a bit wider than the flume behind it. Surprisingly, with the aid of a torch it is sometimes possible to see into the hole alongside the cable, and fiddle the cable past the obstruction In this case drill a 9 or 10mm hole for a 6mm cable. Bill |
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#16
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"Bill Wright" wrote in message ... "Geoff Lane" wrote in message ... Geoff Lane wrote: I live in a property that has a cavity wall. I have several ways of dealing with this, depending on the hole in question. Almost always it is easy to just push the cable through. Cut the end diagonally and be prepared to turn the cable and try again. If an obstruction is met do not push hard. Retract, turn, and try again, gently. This is a skill, but it can be acquired. A single strand of lashing wire pulled tight across a curved surface will become fairly rigid and straight, and can often fiddle its way through a hole that has loose debris in it. I have some lengths of 3mm dia high tensile wire (actually some offcuts from a suspension bridge cable, courtesy of British Ropes). With difficulty I have made eyes in these and they will push through most things and bring the cable along as well. I also have some old radio-telephone aerials which I use in much the same way. Blakes make tubes for the purpose. It is possible to draw a thin wire back through the hole by attaching it to the business end of an HDS masonry drill. Sounds impossible but the cutting edge is a bit wider than the flume behind it. Surprisingly, with the aid of a torch it is sometimes possible to see into the hole alongside the cable, and fiddle the cable past the obstruction In this case drill a 9 or 10mm hole for a 6mm cable. Bill I always use a 24" length of 2mm stainless wire to get a cable through a cavity wall. The wire is pushed a short distance into the cable insulation. It is then "felt through" the holes and across the gap and the cable is then pushed straight through. Very quick and easy and can all be done from the outside until the connector is fitted indoors. Richard H |
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#17
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"Geoff Lane" wrote in message ... I live in a property that has a cavity wall. If I want to feed some aerial cable through the double wall is there a suggestion or tool to get the cable through both walls. Geoff Lane Not usually any need for a draw wire across a cavity. Just drill the hole, straighten the coax and insert, twisting and "feeling". Occasionally you might need to put the drill bit through once more to clear debris. Had one of these today, but cavity was about 2ft across (timber clad building of unusual construction). You can get someone to put the drill through, then just push the drill bit back gently with the cable. Works a treat & stops the cable going into the cavity. |
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#18
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tony sayer wrote:
I live in a property that has a cavity wall. If I want to feed some aerial cable through the double wall is there a suggestion or tool to get the cable through both walls. Geoff Lane http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/FXCRSD.html I use these and can fish 2 shotgun cables from a 16mm hole drilled diagonally upwards into the cavity. If the cavity wall is open at the top, they push right into the roofspace even on 2 story buildings. Glenn... Even past injected cavity wall insulation;!?.... If you mean those wee polystyrene balls, yes. Glenn. -- Glenn Millar - TV Aerials www.glennmillar.plus.com http://tinyurl.com/glennmillar-tvaerials |
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#19
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"-GB-Carpy" wrote in message om... "Geoff Lane" wrote in message ... I live in a property that has a cavity wall. If I want to feed some aerial cable through the double wall is there a suggestion or tool to get the cable through both walls. Geoff Lane Not usually any need for a draw wire across a cavity. Just drill the hole, straighten the coax and insert, twisting and "feeling". Occasionally you might need to put the drill bit through once more to clear debris. Had one of these today, but cavity was about 2ft across (timber clad building of unusual construction). Ha! reminds me of one in some shops a while back. I drilled and the drill went through but it didn't come out at the other side. Turned out someone in the dim and distant had bricked up two shallow alcoves to give a straight run of wall, then put a studding wall over that, so there was a void about 2ft across. Just shoved the piece of suspension bridge through it though -- no problem. Bill |
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#20
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Paul Matthews wrote:
Geoff Lane wrote: I live in a property that has a cavity wall. If I want to feed some aerial cable through the double wall is there a suggestion or tool to get the cable through both walls. If you are usig a decent cable, it will probably just push through without much fuss. Nice to know the options though if it doesn't ![]() Geoff Lane |
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