SCART through the wall

On 6 Sep, 00:23, "ThePunisher" wrote:
wrote:
Hi All,

As part of the upgrade to my "Poor Mans Home Cinema System", I am
going to get a BT Vision box. In order to make room for this I plan to
move the Sky box to the next room, but would like to still connect up
to the VCR via SCART.

My suggestion, stop living in a cupboard.

The room is plenty big enough (and the floors are 1948 concrete
covered in bitumen) it's just that the gap between the shelf and the
underside of the TV is vertically challenged. I have already applied
for an import licence for a new stand and a 28" Sony Trinitron that a
friend of my brother is throwing out, but was refused :=((.

I think I will go for making up a SCART cable from a nice offcut of 4
individualy screened coax cable type cable i've just scrounged, or
else go for the SCART at one end and phonos at the other with a phono
to scart converter to finish the job.

In message ,
Proclaimed
from the tallest tower:

Hi All,

As part of the upgrade to my "Poor Mans Home Cinema System", I am
going to get a BT Vision box. In order to make room for this I plan to
move the Sky box to the next room, but would like to still connect up
to the VCR via SCART.

I don't think the memsahib would be happy with huge holes drilled in
the wall, so can anyone recommend a SCART lead which could be
partially dismantled, and would then fit through a smaller hole than
other?

http://www.tvcables.co.uk/cgi-bin/tv...all-scart.html
??

--
Regards,
Chris.
(Remove Elvis's shoes to email me)

In message ,
Proclaimed
from the tallest tower:

Hi All,

As part of the upgrade to my "Poor Mans Home Cinema System", I am
going to get a BT Vision box. In order to make room for this I plan to
move the Sky box to the next room, but would like to still connect up
to the VCR via SCART.

I don't think the memsahib would be happy with huge holes drilled in
the wall, so can anyone recommend a SCART lead which could be
partially dismantled, and would then fit through a smaller hole than
other?

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Marmitek-Inv.../dp/B000MFK2OC

???????

--
Regards,
Chris.
(Remove Elvis's shoes to email me)

On 6 Sep, 16:44, "ChrisM" wrote:
In message om,
Proclaimed
from the tallest tower:

Hi All,

As part of the upgrade to my "Poor Mans Home Cinema System", I am
going to get a BT Vision box. In order to make room for this I plan to
move the Sky box to the next room, but would like to still connect up
to the VCR via SCART.

I don't think the memsahib would be happy with huge holes drilled in
the wall, so can anyone recommend a SCART lead which could be
partially dismantled, and would then fit through a smaller hole than
other?

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Marmitek-Inv...reless/dp/B000...


£29 Blinking flip mother! I said it was a POOR man's Home Cinema.

Actually, that product does look interesting, for if we ever wanted to
put all the boxes on the other side of the wall. I don't know if it
would cope with the autoswitch on of the VCR though.

I've checked the cableing i've got and it's 5 individualy screened &
insulated coax, so that's 2 for audio, 1 for composite, one for pin 8
and it's return. Do I need to connect up pin 16? If not could I use
the fifth coax for rf2 out (to drive the TV link (Magic Eye)).

In message ,
Proclaimed
from the tallest tower:

On 6 Sep, 16:44, "ChrisM" wrote:
In message om,

Proclaimed from the tallest tower:

Hi All,

As part of the upgrade to my "Poor Mans Home Cinema System", I am
going to get a BT Vision box. In order to make room for this I plan
to move the Sky box to the next room, but would like to still
connect up to the VCR via SCART.

I don't think the memsahib would be happy with huge holes drilled in
the wall, so can anyone recommend a SCART lead which could be
partially dismantled, and would then fit through a smaller hole than
other?

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Marmitek-Inv...reless/dp/B000...


£29 Blinking flip mother! I said it was a POOR man's Home Cinema.

Actually, that product does look interesting, for if we ever wanted to
put all the boxes on the other side of the wall. I don't know if it
would cope with the autoswitch on of the VCR though.

I've checked the cableing i've got and it's 5 individualy screened &
insulated coax, so that's 2 for audio, 1 for composite, one for pin 8
and it's return. Do I need to connect up pin 16? If not could I use
the fifth coax for rf2 out (to drive the TV link (Magic Eye)).

Hmm, sorry, didn't really look at the price, just did a search for ways of
transferring SCART 'through' a wall.
Not sure about how it would cope with autoswitching, depends if it is fully
'wired' or not I suppose.
Did you see my other post(the SCART lead with un-pluggable ends)?
Can't answer your other questions I'm afraid, you'll have to wait for one of
those experts to turn up... :-)

--
Regards,
Chris.
(Remove Elvis's shoes to email me)

On 7 Sep, 13:19, "ChrisM" wrote:
In message om,
Proclaimed
from the tallest tower:





On 6 Sep, 16:44, "ChrisM" wrote:
In message om,

Proclaimed from the tallest tower:

Hi All,

As part of the upgrade to my "Poor Mans Home Cinema System", I am
going to get a BT Vision box. In order to make room for this I plan
to move the Sky box to the next room, but would like to still
connect up to the VCR via SCART.

I don't think the memsahib would be happy with huge holes drilled in
the wall, so can anyone recommend a SCART lead which could be
partially dismantled, and would then fit through a smaller hole than
other?

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Marmitek-Inv...reless/dp/B000...

£29 Blinking flip mother! I said it was a POOR man's Home Cinema.

Actually, that product does look interesting, for if we ever wanted to
put all the boxes on the other side of the wall. I don't know if it
would cope with the autoswitch on of the VCR though.

I've checked the cableing i've got and it's 5 individualy screened &
insulated coax, so that's 2 for audio, 1 for composite, one for pin 8
and it's return. Do I need to connect up pin 16? If not could I use
the fifth coax for rf2 out (to drive the TV link (Magic Eye)).

Hmm, sorry, didn't really look at the price, just did a search for ways of
transferring SCART 'through' a wall.
Not sure about how it would cope with autoswitching, depends if it is fully
'wired' or not I suppose.
Did you see my other post(the SCART lead with un-pluggable ends)?

Ah! The posts were so similar, I unwittingly thought it was a double
posting, and only followed the link in one. That product does look
interesting, but I think for various reasons I will DIY.

In article
. co.uk.invalid,
Alan Pemberton wrote:
Popping the pins out is a bit dodgy. They often don't lock properly when
you put them back in and can disappear inside the plug whenever you plug
them in, resulting in annoyingly baffling no-signal faults.

You need to bend out the locking sprag slightly before re-inserting the
blade. Same as any such connector which holds the 'pins' in such a way.

--
*Why is it that most nudists are people you don't want to see naked?*

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

I tried the SCART wall-plate method, with mixed success ...

You can find plates easily enough, but the ones I've got are not very
robust, and barely grip the leads, which tend to fall out. I used a
multi-core cable from Maplin, and the soldering was very fiddly - a
question of accidentally breaking off one connection for every two that you
succeed in soldering. I only get CV through it, not RGB, despite, I
believe, wiring it correctly, and there's ghosting.

But it does mean I can watch anything piped from my bedroom/office such as
tennis or skiing while I'm getting a meal ready.

Note that normal SCART leads cross-wire pin pairs 1 & 2, 3 & 6, and 19 & 20,
in the diagram below (to view it you may have to copy and paste it into
something that uses a fixed width font such as Notepad). This means that if
you insert a wall-section between two sockets, you will have three sections
of lead - kit item #1 to wall, wall section, and wall to kit #2 - and to
maintain the cross-wiring, your wall section must also cross-wire the same
pin pairs ...

Eg (needs fixed width font):
#1---W----W---#2
1 \/ 2 \/ 1 \/ 2
2 /\ 1 /\ 2 /\ 1

+-----+
| × | Pin 1 Audio out R
| × | Pin 2 Audio in R
| × | Pin 3 Audio out L
| × | Pin 4 Audio ground
| × | Pin 5 Blue ground
| × | Pin 6 Audio in L
| × | Pin 7 Blue in
| × | Pin 8 Status (low = TV, 5v = 16:9 in, 12v = 4:3 in)
| × | Pin 9 Green ground
| × | Pin 10 Comm D²B invert
| × | Pin 11 Green in
| × | Pin 12 Comm D²B
| × | Pin 13 RGB = Red ground, S-Video = C ground
| × | Pin 14 D²B ground
| × | Pin 15 RGB = Red in, S-Video = C in
| × | Pin 16 Status (low = CVBS, high = RGB)
| × | Pin 17 CVBS (video) ground
| × | Pin 18 RGB Status ground
| × | Pin 19 Composite out
| × | Pin 20 Composite or Luminance in
| ___| Pin 21 Casing-socket ground
| /
|/

"Paul D.Smith" wrote in message
.. .
wrote in message
ups.com...

As part of the upgrade to my "Poor Mans Home Cinema System", I am
going to get a BT Vision box. In order to make room for this I plan to
move the Sky box to the next room, but would like to still connect up
to the VCR via SCART.

I don't think the memsahib would be happy with huge holes drilled in
the wall, so can anyone recommend a SCART lead which could be
partially dismantled, and would then fit through a smaller hole than
other?

Alternatively, wall mounted SCART socket each side and carefully wire
between them yourself?

Today at 13:09, Java Jive wrote:
I used a multi-core cable from Maplin, and the soldering was very fiddly
- a question of accidentally breaking off one connection for every two
that you succeed in soldering.

Can you not get them with the same backplate that Ethernet wall plates
have - ie you just line them up and punch in with a tool (or screwdriver)?

--
Kirk

Would have been luverly, but NAFAIAA ...

"Kirk Northrop" wrote in message
k...
Today at 13:09, Java Jive wrote:
I used a multi-core cable from Maplin, and the soldering was very fiddly
- a question of accidentally breaking off one connection for every two
that you succeed in soldering.

Can you not get them with the same backplate that Ethernet wall plates
have - ie you just line them up and punch in with a tool (or screwdriver)?