Long Freeview TV aerial extension cable - use F plugs & satellitecable?

I want to re-route our existing TV aerial cable which presently drops
from the aerial on the central chimney down the roof and front of the
house. Rather than try to sling the cable over the roof to hang down the
back I plan to draw it into the attic and make an extension. We're in a
weak signal area (Reading) which is not even suposed to be able to get
Freeview (though we can - I've tried it). To keep losses down and make
termination easier (than bloody BL plugs!) I'm thinking of using
'satellite' type cable (as used by NTL^H^H^HVirgin) and F plugs.

Does this seem like a good idea? And what type of cable? Some F plugs are
specced to fit "PH100, PF100, RG6 and CT100" cable: what's the difference
between them? Has CT100 been superseeded by H109F and WC100?

http://www.satcure.co.uk/accs/page8.htm seems to have much lower prices on
cables than anywhere else I've come across - anyone had any dealings with
them? They suggest RG6 "for connecting additional TV sets via the RF out
socket" which seems to indicate it's OK for UHF (though maybe not low-loss?)

And what about twist-on connectors versus crimp connectors, and if
crimps are the bee's knees what sort of crimp tool?

tia

--
John Stumbles

Who's *really* behind all these conspiracy theories?

http://www.satcure.co.uk/accs/page8.htm seems to have much lower
prices on
cables than anywhere else I've come across - anyone had any dealings
with
them? They suggest RG6 "for connecting additional TV sets via the RF
out
socket" which seems to indicate it's OK for UHF (though maybe not
low-loss?)

I expect someone will be along shortly who can answer on all points. In
the meantime, if you have not seen it already, you might care to read
Bill Wright's excellent (dare I say seminal?) article on cables
http://www.wrightsaerials.tv/coaxcablequalityhmdim.htm to see where RG6
stands in the rankings.

HTH

--
Robin

John Stumbles wrote:
I want to re-route our existing TV aerial cable which presently drops
from the aerial on the central chimney down the roof and front of the
house. Rather than try to sling the cable over the roof to hang down the
back I plan to draw it into the attic and make an extension.

Since the above will presumably involve roof work anyway, wouldn't it be
possible simply to run a completely new cable from the aerial?

David

John Stumbles wrote:
I want to re-route our existing TV aerial cable which presently drops
from the aerial on the central chimney down the roof and front of the
house. Rather than try to sling the cable over the roof to hang down the
back I plan to draw it into the attic and make an extension. We're in a
weak signal area (Reading) which is not even suposed to be able to get
Freeview (though we can - I've tried it). To keep losses down and make
termination easier (than bloody BL plugs!) I'm thinking of using
'satellite' type cable (as used by NTL^H^H^HVirgin) and F plugs.

Does this seem like a good idea? And what type of cable? Some F plugs are
specced to fit "PH100, PF100, RG6 and CT100" cable: what's the difference
between them? Has CT100 been superseeded by H109F and WC100?

F plugs are far superior in every way to the old BL plugs.

As far as coax goes, you get what you pay for. Normally cheap versions
have reduced braid coverage and an aluminiumised foil to make up for the
lack of braiding. Good coax of this type (like proper CT100 or equiv.)
has much more braid coverage and a copper foil under the braid. There
are lots of cheap imitations about so beware. CT100 and the like are
semi-air spaced whilst cables such as PF100 have a foam dielectric. RG6
has solid polythene dielectric, is thinner and is much more lossy but
more flexible. RG6 is normally used for CCTV installations where loss is
not a problem or for the situation you describe below again where loss
is not so important.

http://www.satcure.co.uk/accs/page8.htm seems to have much lower prices on
cables than anywhere else I've come across - anyone had any dealings with
them? They suggest RG6 "for connecting additional TV sets via the RF out
socket" which seems to indicate it's OK for UHF (though maybe not low-loss?)

And what about twist-on connectors versus crimp connectors, and if
crimps are the bee's knees what sort of crimp tool?

Crimps are quicker and easier if you have lots to do. Electrically
crimped and twist-on are identical if made correctly. So for the odd
connection I would use the twist on. My crimp tool for these has a
hexagonal die that deforms a circular ring to hex over the cable. Cable
TV companies use a different type of crimp that only fits their cable
along with special F plugs.

Steve

On Thu, 10 May 2007 06:36:31 +0000, Lobster wrote:

Since the above will presumably involve roof work anyway, wouldn't it be
possible simply to run a completely new cable from the aerial?

I'm hoping to be able to fish it in between tiles from inside the attic.
If it involved getting onto the roof I'd (a) put up a new aerial (b) get
someone else to do it!


--
John Stumbles

Pessimists are never disappointed

On Thu, 10 May 2007 07:44:14 GMT, John Stumbles
mused:

On Thu, 10 May 2007 06:36:31 +0000, Lobster wrote:

Since the above will presumably involve roof work anyway, wouldn't it be
possible simply to run a completely new cable from the aerial?

I'm hoping to be able to fish it in between tiles from inside the attic.
If it involved getting onto the roof I'd (a) put up a new aerial (b) get
someone else to do it!

All sounds a bit DIY to me, oh, right. Well, I can see you're thinking
there.
--
Regards,
Stuart.

On Thu, 10 May 2007 07:44:14 GMT, John Stumbles wrote:

I'm hoping to be able to fish it in between tiles from inside the attic.

Might be easier to fish it up from the eaves rather than between tiles. To
do the latter you are going to have to puncture the sarking, thus creating
a possible water ingress point.

Even with the eaves you'll probably need to get up to them to drill the
hole and poke the cable through. Slinging a light bit of kite string on a
*small* weight over the roof (so as not to crack any tiles) and hauling
the full current cable over with that might be easier.

--
Cheers
Dave. pam is missing e-mail

On Wed, 09 May 2007 22:34:09 GMT, John Stumbles wrote:

And what about twist-on connectors versus crimp connectors, and if
crimps are the bee's knees what sort of crimp tool?

For good crimps you really need to match the connector to the cable to the
crimp die/tool. The tools are not cheap, so for just a few one offs spend
you money on decent cable and matching (again) twist on connectors.

--
Cheers
Dave. pam is missing e-mail

On Wed, 09 May 2007 23:00:27 +0000, Robin wrote:

I expect someone will be along shortly who can answer on all points. In
the meantime, if you have not seen it already, you might care to read
Bill Wright's excellent (dare I say seminal?) article on cables
http://www.wrightsaerials.tv/coaxcablequalityhmdim.htm to see where RG6
stands in the rankings.

HTH

It does indeed - excellent, thanks. I've started a wiki page on it here

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?...Installati on


--
John Stumbles

I've got nothing against racists - I just wouldn't want my daughter to marry one

John Stumbles wrote:
Does this seem like a good idea? And what type of cable? Some F plugs are
specced to fit "PH100, PF100, RG6 and CT100" cable: what's the difference
between them? Has CT100 been superseeded by H109F and WC100?

Others have addressed this.

http://www.satcure.co.uk/accs/page8.htm seems to have much lower prices on

http://www.qvsdirect.com/qvsshop/ele...100m-drum.html

£27 delivered for 100m

Geoff