Best brand coax and F connector for HD cable?

Try this, I really find it useful:

http://www.lsdinc.com/content/product_details/68

Robert Green wrote:
"Lewis Gardner" wrote in message

Yeah, I've only been doing installs for 30 years, so what do I
know? I know what I have been trained on and what are best
practices. Lots of things will work, but that is not what I will
recommend.

Same here. I have been doing installs for 30+ years but I threw away
the hex crimp stuff 10 years ago. You appear to be living in the
past.

Haven't been doing crimping for 30+ but I can attest that a SNS
connection made by an rank amateur like me is better than any hex
crimp I can perform. Part of the reason is that a good SNS connection
looks good - you can see pretty quickly if it's not done right. Not
so evident with hex crimps. I've seen more than one pro crimp pull
out over time, especially if the cable has aged a bit and lost some
of its plasticity

On the issue of QS, maybe it's overkill from a signal leakage POV,
but it seems the thicker the overall shielding, the more resistance
it has to physical damage from nicks, cuts, scrapes, rodents and
other mishaps.

Part of the reason I bought a compression crimper for the small
amount of cabling I do is to gain a slight edge on reliability. It
seems most people believe SNS delivers. That "reliability edge" is
also why I use QS for outside and "trunk" cabling - it's heftier, but
not very much more expensive.

I'll readily admit whatever extra protection I believe I gain is
physical and not electrical, and maybe not even physical, but only
psychological, but that's good enough for me!

I think there's an added benefit for tyros like me. There's so damn
much braid and foil on QS that it's nearly impossible for even an
amateur to accidentally remove too much from the end of the cable
before pushing the connector in. I'm sure someone's managed it, but
not me. At least not yet.

Removing too much braid accidentally is something I seem to do quite
often with the thinner RG-59 for CCTV use, especially, the 80% braid
that's done like an open basket weave. (-:

The only thing I don't like about the SNS connectors, aside from
price, is that my Ideal connector wrench (screwdriver handle with an
open hex wrench on the end) won't fit on them - the SNS connectors
are too big so I end up tightening them by hand. If anyone knows of
a good wrench to tighten RG6QS SNS connectors, I'd love to hear about
it!

...connector wrench (screwdriver handle with
an open hex wrench on the end) won't fit on
them - the SNS connectors are too big so I
end up tightening them by hand...

That is actually a good thing. There is no reason to tighten the fittings more than "finger tight." The electrical connection is
not made any more or less gas-tight. Tightening them with a wrench only stresses the connection between the cabinet and the
fitting -- definitely not a good thing.

--

Regards,
Robert L Bass

=============================
Bass Home Electronics
941-866-1100
4883 Fallcrest Circle
Sarasota · Florida · 34233
http://www.bassburglaralarms.com
=============================

From a leading engineer in the CATV industry: "We did a scientific
research for a year on CPD and contact interfaces, the report shows us
that it is very important to break through the oxide layer to prevent a
non-linear behavior in contact surfaces. The torque varies with the type
of plating used on the F-connectors.

Finger tight is not tight enough to break through the oxide layer, and
due to temperature cycles it will loosen up after a while. Especially
in the neighborhood of the subscribers and RF output of the node it is
important, (the effect of a loose or bad connection is the biggest at
those points) to have proper contact interfaces.

CPD – This phenomenon, also known as Common Mode Distortion, is
generally the result of age and corrosion in the cable plant connectors.
This non-linear function is commonly caused by oxidation of metal
surfaces, creating a point contact diode. Should the diode effect occur
on the ground portion of a connector, common mode distortion and ingress
are likely. The effect that this diode phenomenon causes is observed as
difference products in the return plant, and can be caused by one or
more faulty connectors.

In general, interfering products will be observed at harmonic intervals
of 6MHz throughout the return plant band. Sidebands of this will tend
to raise the apparent noise floor. Because common mode distortion is a
non-linear effect, slight variations in the point diode structure due to
temperature, humidity, wind velocity, etc. have a significant impact on
the interfering levels observed."

Manufacturers and the engineering community in the CATV industry
recommend they be tightened to 30-in/lbs. The best that can be achieved
by hand is less than 13.


CIAO!

Ed N.

Robert L Bass wrote:
...connector wrench (screwdriver handle with
an open hex wrench on the end) won't fit on
them - the SNS connectors are too big so I
end up tightening them by hand...

That is actually a good thing. There is no reason to tighten the fittings more than "finger tight." The electrical connection is
not made any more or less gas-tight. Tightening them with a wrench only stresses the connection between the cabinet and the
fitting -- definitely not a good thing.

Ed Nielsen wrote:
From a leading engineer in the CATV industry: "We did a scientific
research for a year on CPD and contact interfaces, the report shows
us
that it is very important to break through the oxide layer to
prevent a
non-linear behavior in contact surfaces. The torque varies with the
type
of plating used on the F-connectors.

Finger tight is not tight enough to break through the oxide layer,
and
due to temperature cycles it will loosen up after a while.
Especially
in the neighborhood of the subscribers and RF output of the node it
is
important, (the effect of a loose or bad connection is the biggest
at
those points) to have proper contact interfaces.

CPD - This phenomenon, also known as Common Mode Distortion, is
generally the result of age and corrosion in the cable plant
connectors.
This non-linear function is commonly caused by oxidation of metal
surfaces, creating a point contact diode. Should the diode effect
occur
on the ground portion of a connector, common mode distortion and
ingress
are likely. The effect that this diode phenomenon causes is
observed as
difference products in the return plant, and can be caused by one or

more faulty connectors.

What you're saying here is what I tell everyone who runs ANY kind of
signals. The ground is at least as important (I believe more important)
as the actual signal feed.

In general, interfering products will be observed at harmonic
intervals
of 6MHz throughout the return plant band. Sidebands of this will
tend
to raise the apparent noise floor. Because common mode distortion
is a
non-linear effect, slight variations in the point diode structure
due to
temperature, humidity, wind velocity, etc. have a significant impact
on
the interfering levels observed."

Manufacturers and the engineering community in the CATV industry
recommend they be tightened to 30-in/lbs. The best that can be
achieved
by hand is less than 13.


CIAO!

Ed N.

Everything you say squares with what I have worked with in commercial
TV. On my outdoors connectors I use clear silicone heatsink (NOT
bathtub silicone !! ) grease on the connectors before snugging them up.
The grease prevents oxygen and water from corroding both the center
conductor and the ground connection. The current antenna is 15 months
old and doing fine so far. My cable of choice is Belden 1694A though
their 1505 RG-59 is nearly as good loss-wise as the lesser brands RG-6.
Yes, we use both types at work from analog NTSC and PAL to digital SDI
(serial digital) and uncompressed HD SDI.

GG

On 12 Jan 2007 21:11:21 -0800, "G-squared"
wrote:


Ed Nielsen wrote:
From a leading engineer in the CATV industry: "We did a scientific
research for a year on CPD and contact interfaces, the report shows
us
that it is very important to break through the oxide layer to
prevent a
non-linear behavior in contact surfaces. The torque varies with the
type
of plating used on the F-connectors.

Finger tight is not tight enough to break through the oxide layer,
and
due to temperature cycles it will loosen up after a while.
Especially
in the neighborhood of the subscribers and RF output of the node it
is
important, (the effect of a loose or bad connection is the biggest
at
those points) to have proper contact interfaces.

CPD - This phenomenon, also known as Common Mode Distortion, is
generally the result of age and corrosion in the cable plant
connectors.
This non-linear function is commonly caused by oxidation of metal
surfaces, creating a point contact diode. Should the diode effect
occur
on the ground portion of a connector, common mode distortion and
ingress
are likely. The effect that this diode phenomenon causes is
observed as
difference products in the return plant, and can be caused by one or

more faulty connectors.

What you're saying here is what I tell everyone who runs ANY kind of
signals. The ground is at least as important (I believe more important)
as the actual signal feed.

In general, interfering products will be observed at harmonic
intervals
of 6MHz throughout the return plant band. Sidebands of this will
tend
to raise the apparent noise floor. Because common mode distortion
is a
non-linear effect, slight variations in the point diode structure
due to
temperature, humidity, wind velocity, etc. have a significant impact
on
the interfering levels observed."

Manufacturers and the engineering community in the CATV industry
recommend they be tightened to 30-in/lbs. The best that can be
achieved
by hand is less than 13.


CIAO!

Ed N.

Everything you say squares with what I have worked with in commercial
TV. On my outdoors connectors I use clear silicone heatsink (NOT

I use either DC-4 or 5. Having worked for the company that invented
them and I use them in connectors running high power. However I've
never seen a clear heat sink grease. Dielectric, yes, but not heat
sink. The only silicones I have seen for heat sink coupling are rater
thick and white (Mainly Silicon Dioxide in 200 fluid)

bathtub silicone !! ) grease on the connectors before snugging them up.

There is another family of Silastic RTVs that are non corrosive for
electronics work, but they are water proof, not moisture proof. DC-4
and DC-5 compounds work better. Just don't get them on anything you
want to stick something on. :-))

The grease prevents oxygen and water from corroding both the center
conductor and the ground connection. The current antenna is 15 months
old and doing fine so far. My cable of choice is Belden 1694A though
their 1505 RG-59 is nearly as good loss-wise as the lesser brands RG-6.
Yes, we use both types at work from analog NTSC and PAL to digital SDI
(serial digital) and uncompressed HD SDI.

Our cable company (Charter) seems to be using a compression clamp now.

GG
Roger Halstead (K8RI & ARRL life member)
(N833R, S# CD-2 Worlds oldest Debonair)
www.rogerhalstead.com

Roger wrote:
On 12 Jan 2007 21:11:21 -0800, "G-squared"
wrote:

snip

Everything you say squares with what I have worked with in commercial
TV. On my outdoors connectors I use clear silicone heatsink (NOT

I use either DC-4 or 5. Having worked for the company that invented
them and I use them in connectors running high power. However I've
never seen a clear heat sink grease. Dielectric, yes, but not heat
sink. The only silicones I have seen for heat sink coupling are rater
thick and white (Mainly Silicon Dioxide in 200 fluid)

bathtub silicone !! ) grease on the connectors before snugging them up.

There is another family of Silastic RTVs that are non corrosive for
electronics work, but they are water proof, not moisture proof. DC-4
and DC-5 compounds work better. Just don't get them on anything you
want to stick something on. :-))

The grease prevents oxygen and water from corroding both the center
conductor and the ground connection. The current antenna is 15 months
old and doing fine so far. My cable of choice is Belden 1694A though
their 1505 RG-59 is nearly as good loss-wise as the lesser brands RG-6.
Yes, we use both types at work from analog NTSC and PAL to digital SDI
(serial digital) and uncompressed HD SDI.

Our cable company (Charter) seems to be using a compression clamp now.

GG
Roger Halstead (K8RI & ARRL life member)
(N833R, S# CD-2 Worlds oldest Debonair)
www.rogerhalstead.com

The goop I used is GC 10-8101-0000 specialty silicone compound ,
lubricant/dielectric. It used to be marketed as heatsink grease way
back in the '60s and '70s. Later compounds added silicon dioxide (?
white stuff) as an improvement.

I'll have to look up the DC-4 and DC-5.

Thanks
GG

On 13 Jan 2007 11:43:20 -0800, "G-squared"
wrote:


Roger wrote:
On 12 Jan 2007 21:11:21 -0800, "G-squared"
wrote:

snip

Everything you say squares with what I have worked with in commercial
TV. On my outdoors connectors I use clear silicone heatsink (NOT

I use either DC-4 or 5. Having worked for the company that invented
them and I use them in connectors running high power. However I've
never seen a clear heat sink grease. Dielectric, yes, but not heat
sink. The only silicones I have seen for heat sink coupling are rater
thick and white (Mainly Silicon Dioxide in 200 fluid)

bathtub silicone !! ) grease on the connectors before snugging them up.

There is another family of Silastic RTVs that are non corrosive for
electronics work, but they are water proof, not moisture proof. DC-4
and DC-5 compounds work better. Just don't get them on anything you
want to stick something on. :-))

The grease prevents oxygen and water from corroding both the center
conductor and the ground connection. The current antenna is 15 months
old and doing fine so far. My cable of choice is Belden 1694A though
their 1505 RG-59 is nearly as good loss-wise as the lesser brands RG-6.
Yes, we use both types at work from analog NTSC and PAL to digital SDI
(serial digital) and uncompressed HD SDI.

Our cable company (Charter) seems to be using a compression clamp now.

GG
Roger Halstead (K8RI & ARRL life member)
(N833R, S# CD-2 Worlds oldest Debonair)
www.rogerhalstead.com

The goop I used is GC 10-8101-0000 specialty silicone compound ,
lubricant/dielectric. It used to be marketed as heatsink grease way
back in the '60s and '70s. Later compounds added silicon dioxide (?
white stuff) as an improvement.

With the power increase of CPUs they've had to really increase the
efficiency of the compounds. With my latest CPU running about 128
watts, which is more than this whole computer, it takes a compound
with lots of silver in it and a huge heat sink with heat pipes and
large fan.

I'll have to look up the DC-4 and DC-5.

I believe DC-4 or a variant was the company's first product. It was
used to keep the spark plug connectors from arcing over on B-17s at
high altitude. It's been around a very long time:-))

DC-4 and 5 are repackaged by vendors and sold under a variety of names
and designators. GE has a similar line of compounds, some of which are
almost identical to the DC compounds.

As an interesting side note (to me at least) these compounds are
proprietary instead of being patented.


Thanks
GG
Roger Halstead (K8RI & ARRL life member)
(N833R, S# CD-2 Worlds oldest Debonair)
www.rogerhalstead.com

"BruceR" wrote in message
...
Try this, I really find it useful:

http://www.lsdinc.com/content/product_details/68

Looks great. The tool I had was really just a cut-open socket welded to a
screwdriver handle. The SNS connectors have a large body and the wrench
couldn't fit over it. The ones you've shown have a larger area and should
work nicely. They are also shorter and look much easier to manuever in
small spaces. I have an old tendon injury that makes tightening those SNS
connectors by hand really painful.

--
Bobby G.


Robert Green wrote:
The only thing I don't like about the SNS connectors, aside from
price, is that my Ideal connector wrench (screwdriver handle with an
open hex wrench on the end) won't fit on them - the SNS connectors
are too big so I end up tightening them by hand. If anyone knows of
a good wrench to tighten RG6QS SNS connectors, I'd love to hear about
it!

In article lnh
writes:

In article ,
Roger wrote:

As to how well the foil and braid works; I run the cable through
conduit with the cables for my ham station.

Horribly bad practice! Running coaxial cable through metallic conduit will
change the impedance. Also running transmitter coax alongside receive coax
in the same cable bundle is a fool's bet and assumes zero VSWR on the
transmitting antenna. You may be an old-timer, but I've been around the
track a number of times myself and can tell you, unequovically, what
you're doing is wrong.

---
Cap'n Preshoot
Ex. P1-17-11478 (retired comm'l broadcast engr)

"Captain Preshoot" wrote in message
...
In article lnh
writes:

In article ,
Roger wrote:

As to how well the foil and braid works; I run the cable through
conduit with the cables for my ham station.

Horribly bad practice! Running coaxial cable through metallic conduit will
change the impedance. Also running transmitter coax alongside receive coax
in the same cable bundle is a fool's bet and assumes zero VSWR on the
transmitting antenna. You may be an old-timer, but I've been around the
track a number of times myself and can tell you, unequovically, what
you're doing is wrong.

---
Cap'n Preshoot
Ex. P1-17-11478 (retired comm'l broadcast engr)

The characteristic impedance of a cable is a function of the dimensions of
the center conductor and the distance to the inside of the shield and the
dielectric constant of the material in between. The energy is contained
within the dielectric. Running the cable in a metal conduit should have no
effect at all, assuming the shield is complete.