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Bill Wright[_2_] January 2nd 11 09:48 PM

TOT Film scanners
 
Mr Guest wrote:

Also when taking the shots, even if the camera is tripod-mounted,
if there is a self-timer setting, this will prevent any camera
shake from pressing the shutter button down fully. I tried some
long exposure night-time shots recently and the 2 second self-timer
delay was very handy.


Yes, a good point which I forgot! I generally use the self timer.

Bill

Kennedy McEwen January 2nd 11 11:28 PM

TOT Film scanners
 
In article , Bill Wright
Take care to get the projector dead square on to the screen. Obviously
it must be opposite the midpoint of the projected picture.

snip fro brevity

For copying colour, project nothing (white screen) and set the camera's
colour balance accordingly. If the camera won't do that try the
settings for tungsten light. There will probably be several.
Ultimately, correct balance in Photoshop, but get it as good as you can
in the camera first.

All of which is fine for slides, however you need more than in-camera
colour balance and Photoshop to cope with colour negatives, due to the
deep orange base. The dynamic range of even the best digital cameras
just isn't enough to accommodate that and yield even mediocre colour and
tonal range after inversion. You need to use a very deep cyan-ish blue,
ideally adjustable density, filter on the camera to correct for the
orange mask before the image gets recorded on the digicam's sensor and
even then the results are a bit hit and miss.

Basically the same thing as you had to do on a colour enlarger when
making prints from negs, although colour paper was already more
sensitive to blue (which is one reason why the orange mask was there in
the first place).

However, if you want to do the job properly, get one of the later
versions of Nikon Coolscan Scanner (4000/V/5000/8000/9000), with "ICE" -
a separate infrared channel is used which is mainly transmitted by the
film. The software automatically compares this channel with the RGB
channels to identify and clone out any scratches or dust - saving hours
in Photoshop on each image. Like the best kit, they don't make 'em
anymore, but you can still pick them up on Ebay and sell them there (for
a loss of pennies if not a profit) after you have scanned all your film.
--
Kennedy
Yes, Socrates himself is particularly missed;
A lovely little thinker, but a bugger when he's ****ed.
Python Philosophers (replace 'nospam' with 'kennedym' when replying)

Dave Saville[_3_] January 3rd 11 10:50 AM

TOT Film scanners
 
On Sun, 2 Jan 2011 19:22:45 UTC, Bill Wright wrote:

Dave Saville wrote:
On Sun, 2 Jan 2011 15:14:14 UTC, J G Miller wrote:

On Sunday, January 2nd, 2011 at 14:48:21h +0000, Dave Saville wrote:

The mistake I made was not buying the slide attachment
for it when it was new :-(
Do you check eBay (or similar sites) from time to time to see if anybody
is selling one "pre-owned"?


No - I think I might try Bill's idea of projecting and re
photographing - when he posts his "how to" :-)

It's done, it's done!

Bill


Thanks Bill
--
Regards
Dave Saville

Richard Brooks[_4_] January 4th 11 03:15 AM

TOT Film scanners
 

On Sat, 1 Jan 2011 16:21:38 +0000 (UTC), "Dave Saville"
wrote:

Anyone had experiance of the 35mm film and slide scanners that the
like of Maplins sell? Looking for a self containd type that records to
SD card. No way will I find drivers for a connected one for my old
OS/2 system. :-)

TIA


Yes, the ION2PC unit I got from Maplin doesn't give a full intensity
scan across the full area so the light falls off at the edges and corners.


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