| Page 1 of 2 | 1 | 2 |
|
|
|
New aerials/cables advice please
The setup that we inherited from the privious owners consists of 3 x aerials
attachet to the (same) chimney and poll with separate cables running to each TV point. The aerials look very old and rusty, and so are the external cables. We now can just about get a signal strong enough for freeview from one of them. The other two appear to be dead (cables? connections? aerials? all?). A diagram of the current setup can be found he http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=2lmuv86&s=3 With the painters coming over soon to paint the outside of the house providing easy access to the chimney , we are looking to replace everything with new aerial(s) and cables. TV point 3 is connected to Sky, but we would like to have Freeview there as well as a back up. TV points 1 + 2 need to be connected to Freeview only. Before I go ahead and do it there are a few considerations that I would appreciate if those in the know could comment on: - Should I go for 1 or 3 aerials? If at all possible then I would rather avoid having to use a distribution and/or amplifier box. This will probably need to be housed in the attic space which will mean having to come in and then out of the house again (only way to route the cables downstairs) + having to work out a new power source there. - Cable length. TV point 3 is at least 25 metres from the aerial. Would such a run be ok without amplifying the signal along the way? - Which cable should I use? - Connector along the way. The wall socket of TV point 3 is connected to a cable that runs under the house, and the new cable from the aerial will have to be joined to it. What is the best way to do this (the connection will be under the house)? Many thanks in advance for any advice/suggestion/comments. J. |
New aerials/cables advice please
- Should I go for 1 or 3 aerials?
1. There was a long thread I started here about the problems that I had with my parents 2 aerial setup. 1 aerial and a DA will save you much grief - I've now reached the point with my parents setup that I've got a 4-way DA installed and just need to persuade them to let me run a cable to the single TV on the other aerial and disconnect it. Al. |
New aerials/cables advice please
"Al" wrote in message . 4... - Should I go for 1 or 3 aerials? 1. There was a long thread I started here about the problems that I had with my parents 2 aerial setup. 1 aerial and a DA will save you much grief - I've now reached the point with my parents setup that I've got a 4-way DA installed and just need to persuade them to let me run a cable to the single TV on the other aerial and disconnect it. Al. Sorry... What's a DA? |
New aerials/cables advice please
"JoeJoe" wrote in message
... "Al" wrote in message . 4... - Should I go for 1 or 3 aerials? 1. There was a long thread I started here about the problems that I had with my parents 2 aerial setup. 1 aerial and a DA will save you much grief - I've now reached the point with my parents setup that I've got a 4-way DA installed and just need to persuade them to let me run a cable to the single TV on the other aerial and disconnect it. Al. Sorry... What's a DA? Distribution amplifier. Takes the signal from the aerial and amplifies the signal then distributes it to several outputs. Peter Crosland |
New aerials/cables advice please
There are aerial rigger pros here who hopefully will give you better
advice than myself - I am just an interested amateur whose field of expertise really lies elswhere - but there are one or two things that spring to mind ... On Sat, 8 Aug 2009 12:01:42 +0100, "JoeJoe" wrote: A diagram of the current setup can be found he http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=2lmuv86&s=3 - Should I go for 1 or 3 aerials? I'd say one ... If at all possible then I would rather avoid having to use a distribution and/or amplifier box. This will probably need to be housed in the attic space which will mean having to come in and then out of the house again (only way to route the cables downstairs) + having to work out a new power source there. AIUI, it's preferred to have cable indoors, so that aging under UV light from the sun does not occur. Naturally, the part from the aerial to the distribution amplifier must at least start outside, but it's probably a good idea to keep the rest indoors if possible. What sort of walls have you? Stone? Brick outer layer, block inner? What's on the inside of them? Plaster? Plasterboarding? The answers to these questions can make it easier (all things are relative he-) to pull cables through inside the house or not. My house is a modern brick outer, blockwork inner, with plasterboard on slats about 20mm off the wall. This means that, albeit with a lot of fishing about and cursing, I was able to drop new aerial cables down behind the plasterboarding. Although you can have a fused spur off a lighting circuit to power a low current distribution amplifier, it would be vulnerable to spikes caused by old light switches, etc. I used to have that arrangement, but I've now run a spur from a bedroom power socket up to a power socket in the attic, which means that I can protect the amp with a plug-in spike protector - a better arrangement. - Cable length. TV point 3 is at least 25 metres from the aerial. Would such a run be ok without amplifying the signal along the way? Rigger/trade pros should really answer this point. - Which cable should I use? The consensus here seems to be CAI Benchmarked xx100 cable, as that is double insulated and better for keeping out interference ... http://www.cai.org.uk/information/do...tegory&catid=4 You'll need double-insulated sockets to match. http://www.wrightsaerials.tv/referen...100-dlead.html - Connector along the way. The wall socket of TV point 3 is connected to a cable that runs under the house, and the new cable from the aerial will have to be joined to it. What is the best way to do this (the connection will be under the house)? Again, there seems to be a consensus on avoiding joins if possible, as they are always cause some loss and are a weak point, particularly out of doors. Can you not use the existing cable to pull through the replacement in stages all the way to the wall socket? ====================================== Please always reply to news group as the email address in this post's header does not exist. Alternatively, use one of the contact addresses at: http://www.macfh.co.uk/JavaJive/JavaJive.html http://www.macfh.co.uk/Macfarlane/Macfarlane.html |
New aerials/cables advice please
Distribution amplifier..
I have avoided the clever arese reply here.. Brian -- Brian Gaff - Note:- In order to reduce spam, any email without 'Brian Gaff' in the display name may be lost. Blind user, so no pictures please! "JoeJoe" wrote in message ... "Al" wrote in message . 4... - Should I go for 1 or 3 aerials? 1. There was a long thread I started here about the problems that I had with my parents 2 aerial setup. 1 aerial and a DA will save you much grief - I've now reached the point with my parents setup that I've got a 4-way DA installed and just need to persuade them to let me run a cable to the single TV on the other aerial and disconnect it. Al. Sorry... What's a DA? |
New aerials/cables advice please
"Java Jive" wrote in message ... There are aerial rigger pros here who hopefully will give you better advice than myself - I am just an interested amateur whose field of expertise really lies elswhere - but there are one or two things that spring to mind ... On Sat, 8 Aug 2009 12:01:42 +0100, "JoeJoe" wrote: A diagram of the current setup can be found he http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=2lmuv86&s=3 - Should I go for 1 or 3 aerials? I'd say one ... If at all possible then I would rather avoid having to use a distribution and/or amplifier box. This will probably need to be housed in the attic space which will mean having to come in and then out of the house again (only way to route the cables downstairs) + having to work out a new power source there. AIUI, it's preferred to have cable indoors, so that aging under UV light from the sun does not occur. Naturally, the part from the aerial to the distribution amplifier must at least start outside, but it's probably a good idea to keep the rest indoors if possible. What sort of walls have you? Stone? Brick outer layer, block inner? What's on the inside of them? Plaster? Plasterboarding? The answers to these questions can make it easier (all things are relative he-) to pull cables through inside the house or not. My house is a modern brick outer, blockwork inner, with plasterboard on slats about 20mm off the wall. This means that, albeit with a lot of fishing about and cursing, I was able to drop new aerial cables down behind the plasterboarding. Brick in and out with cavity. No chance of fishing anything... Tried that before.. Although you can have a fused spur off a lighting circuit to power a low current distribution amplifier, it would be vulnerable to spikes caused by old light switches, etc. I used to have that arrangement, but I've now run a spur from a bedroom power socket up to a power socket in the attic, which means that I can protect the amp with a plug-in spike protector - a better arrangement. Would be tricky, as I cannot be botherred having to decorate again... Would running ~10m or so cable from aerial to 1st point, putting amplifier there, and distributing elsewhere be ok? - Cable length. TV point 3 is at least 25 metres from the aerial. Would such a run be ok without amplifying the signal along the way? Rigger/trade pros should really answer this point. - Which cable should I use? The consensus here seems to be CAI Benchmarked xx100 cable, as that is double insulated and better for keeping out interference ... http://www.cai.org.uk/information/do...tegory&catid=4 You'll need double-insulated sockets to match. http://www.wrightsaerials.tv/referen...100-dlead.html - Connector along the way. The wall socket of TV point 3 is connected to a cable that runs under the house, and the new cable from the aerial will have to be joined to it. What is the best way to do this (the connection will be under the house)? Again, there seems to be a consensus on avoiding joins if possible, as they are always cause some loss and are a weak point, particularly out of doors. Can you not use the existing cable to pull through the replacement in stages all the way to the wall socket? Not really an option for me I am affraid... Cable connected to socket in wall (number 3) is not long enough to reach even other TV points. |
New aerials/cables advice please
"Brian Gaff" wrote in message om... Distribution amplifier.. I have avoided the clever arese reply here.. Brian Would running ~10m or so cable from aerial to 1st point, putting amplifier there, and distributing elsewhere be ok? |
New aerials/cables advice please
I'd rather leave answering your specific question to the pros.
Generally, it's usually best to put an amplifier as close as possible to the aerial, hence Owain's suggestion of a masthead amplifier. These, as their name suggests, are clamped 1-2m down the mast from the aerial. As Owain has indicated, they are powered by DC superimposed on the AC of the aerial signal itself. The DC often comes from a suitable distribution amp - you'd either have to buy them as a paired kit or check that the distribution amp can supply DC - or a standalone PSU through which the aerial signal passes on the way to the TV Wall Socket. But it rather depends on your signal level. You may not actually need a masthead amplifier if the rest of your system is up to scratch, in which case putting one in would be a waste of money and I believe can even be counter-productive. It might be an idea to tell us what signal levels you get on a Freeview box, then those here in the know will be able to give more specific advice. On Sat, 8 Aug 2009 13:44:25 +0100, "JoeJoe" wrote: Would running ~10m or so cable from aerial to 1st point, putting amplifier there, and distributing elsewhere be ok? ====================================== Please always reply to news group as the email address in this post's header does not exist. Alternatively, use one of the contact addresses at: http://www.macfh.co.uk/JavaJive/JavaJive.html http://www.macfh.co.uk/Macfarlane/Macfarlane.html |
New aerials/cables advice please
In article b36ae398-0589-458c-a2e4-e31dee1ceac3
@k26g2000vbp.googlegroups.com, Owain says... Use a masthead amplifier/splitter and send the power to it up the downlead from one of the TV points. Don't. They amplify all the **** as well as what you want and they fail. Get 3 decent antennas stuck up there. Maplin do some excellent wideband ones. They do a 71 element one which is extremely directional with a good high gain. - Which cable should I use? Good quality satellite cable Agreed. Forget TV co-ax. -- Conor www.notebooks-r-us.co.uk I only please one person per day. Today is not your day. Tomorrow isn't looking good either. - Scott Adams |
New aerials/cables advice please
In article , Peter
Crosland says... Distribution amplifier. Takes the signal from the aerial and amplifies the signal ....along with all the interference and signals from the continent.... -- Conor www.notebooks-r-us.co.uk I only please one person per day. Today is not your day. Tomorrow isn't looking good either. - Scott Adams |
New aerials/cables advice please
"Conor" wrote in message ... In article b36ae398-0589-458c-a2e4-e31dee1ceac3 @k26g2000vbp.googlegroups.com, Owain says... Use a masthead amplifier/splitter and send the power to it up the downlead from one of the TV points. Don't. They amplify all the **** as well as what you want and they fail. Get 3 decent antennas stuck up there. Maplin do some excellent wideband ones. They do a 71 element one which is extremely directional with a good high gain. Plumps up cushions, opens popcorn, finds laptop charging lead......................................... To OP if you follow this advice; remove everything from under the aerial location with three high gain 71 element arrays on a single mast. Also, leave up the original three, add some more and call it modern art http://www.wrightsaerials.tv/aerialp...odern/015.html |
New aerials/cables advice please
On Sat, 08 Aug 2009 15:04:11 +0100, Conor wrote:
...along with all the interference and signals from the continent.... What is the difference between "signals" and "interference". Are not signals which do not interfere a good thing? Or is this some sort of communist plot? |
New aerials/cables advice please
On Sat, 08 Aug 2009 15:03:40 +0100, Conor wrote:
Agreed. Forget TV co-ax. Satellite cable is coaxial cable. |
New aerials/cables advice please
In article , J G Miller says...
What is the difference between "signals" and "interference". One you want and one you don't. Are not signals which do not interfere a good thing? That's the point. You'll amplify those that do interfere. -- Conor www.notebooks-r-us.co.uk I only please one person per day. Today is not your day. Tomorrow isn't looking good either. - Scott Adams |
New aerials/cables advice please
In article , J G Miller says...
On Sat, 08 Aug 2009 15:03:40 +0100, Conor wrote: Agreed. Forget TV co-ax. Satellite cable is coaxial cable. Satellite cable is not TV co-ax. If you want to be pedantic, I could actually say there is no such thing as satellite cable. -- Conor www.notebooks-r-us.co.uk I only please one person per day. Today is not your day. Tomorrow isn't looking good either. - Scott Adams |
New aerials/cables advice please
Conor wrote:
In article , Peter Crosland says... Distribution amplifier. Takes the signal from the aerial and amplifies the signal ...along with all the interference and signals from the continent.... Don't buy a laptop from this man, he hasn't got a ****ung clue. |
New aerials/cables advice please
"Java Jive" wrote in message ... I'd rather leave answering your specific question to the pros. Generally, it's usually best to put an amplifier as close as possible to the aerial, hence Owain's suggestion of a masthead amplifier. These, as their name suggests, are clamped 1-2m down the mast from the aerial. As Owain has indicated, they are powered by DC superimposed on the AC of the aerial signal itself. The DC often comes from a suitable distribution amp - you'd either have to buy them as a paired kit or check that the distribution amp can supply DC - or a standalone PSU through which the aerial signal passes on the way to the TV Wall Socket. But it rather depends on your signal level. You may not actually need a masthead amplifier if the rest of your system is up to scratch, in which case putting one in would be a waste of money and I believe can even be counter-productive. It might be an idea to tell us what signal levels you get on a Freeview box, then those here in the know will be able to give more specific advice. My 3 aerials look like this: http://tinypic.com/r/11qh3c0/3 As you can see two face in the same direction, the third slightly off... I am not sure though which of them is the one that I manage to get something out of. The signal on a rather old Philips FV box shows as around 30% signal strength, and 100% signal quality. The neighbours' aerials - see here http://tinypic.com/r/2myq1sg/3 - with our houses perfectly aligned - face around 10 degrees off mine. I may not have put it clearly enough, but I am looking for a cost effective solution, not a state of the art one. Our main viewing is through Sky, not Freeview, and we are merely looking for a backup solution + a FV for one spare TV in the kids playroom. |
New aerials/cables advice please
In article , Adrian
says... Conor wrote: In article , Peter Crosland says... Distribution amplifier. Takes the signal from the aerial and amplifies the signal ...along with all the interference and signals from the continent.... Don't buy a laptop from this man, he hasn't got a ****ung clue. More of a clue about everything compared to you. It would seem that radio communications is another thing to add to the list. -- Conor www.notebooks-r-us.co.uk I only please one person per day. Today is not your day. Tomorrow isn't looking good either. - Scott Adams |
New aerials/cables advice please
In article , JoeJoe
says... As you can see two face in the same direction, the third slightly off... I am not sure though which of them is the one that I manage to get something out of. The only way to accurately figure out where they should be pointing is to find out where the transmitter is, what the direction is in degrees from your house (don't forget to convert from map to magnetic by adding the difference between true north and magnetic north) and use a compass. Standing on the ground in front of the house will give you a close enough idea - you don't need to be stood directly where the antenna mast is. -- Conor www.notebooks-r-us.co.uk I only please one person per day. Today is not your day. Tomorrow isn't looking good either. - Scott Adams |
New aerials/cables advice please
On Sat, 8 Aug 2009 18:18:21 +0100, "JoeJoe" wrote:
My 3 aerials look like this: http://tinypic.com/r/11qh3c0/3 As you can see two face in the same direction, the third slightly off... I am not sure though which of them is the one that I manage to get something out of. The neighbours' aerials - see here http://tinypic.com/r/2myq1sg/3 - with our houses perfectly aligned - face around 10 degrees off mine. Alignment I can definitely help with, or at least my site can, if you can find out which transmitter you are receiving: http://www.macfh.co.uk/Test/UKTerrestrialTVTest.html The signal on a rather old Philips FV box shows as around 30% signal strength, and 100% signal quality. Strength sounds perhaps a bit low, but let's see if others want to run with that. I may not have put it clearly enough, but I am looking for a cost effective solution, not a state of the art one. Our main viewing is through Sky, not Freeview, and we are merely looking for a backup solution + a FV for one spare TV in the kids playroom. Ok, but equally, if a job's worth doing at all, it's worth doing to a certain minimum standard - there's no point in spending money now doing half a job, only to find that you have to spend double the amount later. It rather sounds to me as though something based on a distribution amp, and, given the rather low signal strength, a masthead amp However, apart from any the alignment, I'm not sure there's much more I can add, though you may care to take a look at the following thread, concerning the problems I had here - I installed a masthead amp and a distribution amp, so while not all of it will be relevant to your situation, a fair slice will be: http://tinyurl.com/llougd .... standing in for ... http://groups.google.com/group/uk.te...2d6d033115b50d ====================================== Please always reply to news group as the email address in this post's header does not exist. Alternatively, use one of the contact addresses at: http://www.macfh.co.uk/JavaJive/JavaJive.html http://www.macfh.co.uk/Macfarlane/Macfarlane.html |
New aerials/cables advice please
Use a masthead amplifier/splitter and send the power to it up the downlead from one of the TV points. Don't. They amplify all the **** as well as what you want and they fail. Get 3 decent antennas stuck up there. Maplin do some excellent wideband ones. They do a 71 element one which is extremely directional with a good high gain. Just the job for your truck then, but as the OP has not told us which Tx he is using, how can you know that a W/B aerial is appropriate? -- Graham. %Profound_observation% |
New aerials/cables advice please
"JoeJoe" wrote in message
o.uk... The setup that we inherited from the privious owners consists of 3 x aerials attachet to the (same) chimney and poll with separate cables running to each TV point. The aerials look very old and rusty, and so are the external cables. We now can just about get a signal strong enough for freeview from one of them. The other two appear to be dead (cables? connections? aerials? all?). A diagram of the current setup can be found he http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=2lmuv86&s=3 With the painters coming over soon to paint the outside of the house providing easy access to the chimney , we are looking to replace everything with new aerial(s) and cables. TV point 3 is connected to Sky, but we would like to have Freeview there as well as a back up. TV points 1 + 2 need to be connected to Freeview only. Before I go ahead and do it there are a few considerations that I would appreciate if those in the know could comment on: - Should I go for 1 or 3 aerials? If at all possible then I would rather avoid having to use a distribution and/or amplifier box. This will probably need to be housed in the attic space which will mean having to come in and then out of the house again (only way to route the cables downstairs) + having to work out a new power source there. - Cable length. TV point 3 is at least 25 metres from the aerial. Would such a run be ok without amplifying the signal along the way? - Which cable should I use? - Connector along the way. The wall socket of TV point 3 is connected to a cable that runs under the house, and the new cable from the aerial will have to be joined to it. What is the best way to do this (the connection will be under the house)? Many thanks in advance for any advice/suggestion/comments. J. You've had half a million replies and not one single person has asked which transmitter you are using and how far away you are from it? If your signal is strong enough in the first place a single aerial and a three way passive splitter could easily suffice. -- Woody harrogate three at ntlworld dot com |
New aerials/cables advice please
"Woody" wrote in message ... "JoeJoe" wrote in message o.uk... The setup that we inherited from the privious owners consists of 3 x aerials attachet to the (same) chimney and poll with separate cables running to each TV point. The aerials look very old and rusty, and so are the external cables. We now can just about get a signal strong enough for freeview from one of them. The other two appear to be dead (cables? connections? aerials? all?). A diagram of the current setup can be found he http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=2lmuv86&s=3 With the painters coming over soon to paint the outside of the house providing easy access to the chimney , we are looking to replace everything with new aerial(s) and cables. TV point 3 is connected to Sky, but we would like to have Freeview there as well as a back up. TV points 1 + 2 need to be connected to Freeview only. Before I go ahead and do it there are a few considerations that I would appreciate if those in the know could comment on: - Should I go for 1 or 3 aerials? If at all possible then I would rather avoid having to use a distribution and/or amplifier box. This will probably need to be housed in the attic space which will mean having to come in and then out of the house again (only way to route the cables downstairs) + having to work out a new power source there. - Cable length. TV point 3 is at least 25 metres from the aerial. Would such a run be ok without amplifying the signal along the way? - Which cable should I use? - Connector along the way. The wall socket of TV point 3 is connected to a cable that runs under the house, and the new cable from the aerial will have to be joined to it. What is the best way to do this (the connection will be under the house)? Many thanks in advance for any advice/suggestion/comments. J. You've had half a million replies and not one single person has asked which transmitter you are using and how far away you are from it? If your signal is strong enough in the first place a single aerial and a three way passive splitter could easily suffice. Not sure how to check if signal is strong enough... My transmitter according to the freeview website is http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Black_H...itting_station |
New aerials/cables advice please
"JoeJoe" wrote in message o.uk... "Woody" wrote in message ... "JoeJoe" wrote in message o.uk... The setup that we inherited from the privious owners consists of 3 x aerials attachet to the (same) chimney and poll with separate cables running to each TV point. The aerials look very old and rusty, and so are the external cables. We now can just about get a signal strong enough for freeview from one of them. The other two appear to be dead (cables? connections? aerials? all?). A diagram of the current setup can be found he http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=2lmuv86&s=3 With the painters coming over soon to paint the outside of the house providing easy access to the chimney , we are looking to replace everything with new aerial(s) and cables. TV point 3 is connected to Sky, but we would like to have Freeview there as well as a back up. TV points 1 + 2 need to be connected to Freeview only. Before I go ahead and do it there are a few considerations that I would appreciate if those in the know could comment on: - Should I go for 1 or 3 aerials? If at all possible then I would rather avoid having to use a distribution and/or amplifier box. This will probably need to be housed in the attic space which will mean having to come in and then out of the house again (only way to route the cables downstairs) + having to work out a new power source there. - Cable length. TV point 3 is at least 25 metres from the aerial. Would such a run be ok without amplifying the signal along the way? - Which cable should I use? - Connector along the way. The wall socket of TV point 3 is connected to a cable that runs under the house, and the new cable from the aerial will have to be joined to it. What is the best way to do this (the connection will be under the house)? Many thanks in advance for any advice/suggestion/comments. J. You've had half a million replies and not one single person has asked which transmitter you are using and how far away you are from it? If your signal is strong enough in the first place a single aerial and a three way passive splitter could easily suffice. Not sure how to check if signal is strong enough... My transmitter according to the freeview website is http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Black_H...itting_station PS: and I am at G62 7LB |
New aerials/cables advice please
JoeJoe wrote:
"JoeJoe" wrote in message o.uk... "Woody" wrote in message ... "JoeJoe" wrote in message o.uk... The setup that we inherited from the privious owners consists of 3 x aerials attachet to the (same) chimney and poll with separate cables running to each TV point. The aerials look very old and rusty, and so are the external cables. We now can just about get a signal strong enough for freeview from one of them. The other two appear to be dead (cables? connections? aerials? all?). A diagram of the current setup can be found he http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=2lmuv86&s=3 With the painters coming over soon to paint the outside of the house providing easy access to the chimney , we are looking to replace everything with new aerial(s) and cables. TV point 3 is connected to Sky, but we would like to have Freeview there as well as a back up. TV points 1 + 2 need to be connected to Freeview only. Before I go ahead and do it there are a few considerations that I would appreciate if those in the know could comment on: - Should I go for 1 or 3 aerials? If at all possible then I would rather avoid having to use a distribution and/or amplifier box. This will probably need to be housed in the attic space which will mean having to come in and then out of the house again (only way to route the cables downstairs) + having to work out a new power source there. - Cable length. TV point 3 is at least 25 metres from the aerial. Would such a run be ok without amplifying the signal along the way? - Which cable should I use? - Connector along the way. The wall socket of TV point 3 is connected to a cable that runs under the house, and the new cable from the aerial will have to be joined to it. What is the best way to do this (the connection will be under the house)? Many thanks in advance for any advice/suggestion/comments. J. You've had half a million replies and not one single person has asked which transmitter you are using and how far away you are from it? If your signal is strong enough in the first place a single aerial and a three way passive splitter could easily suffice. Not sure how to check if signal is strong enough... My transmitter according to the freeview website is http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Black_H...itting_station PS: and I am at G62 7LB At the moment, a good quality group B aerial will give you all the analogue channels, and four of the digital muxes, after DSO 30/03/11 all digital muxes will be in group B. -- Adrian |
New aerials/cables advice please
Yes. On the version of the calculator on my PC, I'm developing a
"Find the best TX" program. For your postcode, it makes Black Hill a clear winner for all of current analog, current DTT Pre DSO, DTT Post DSO. The signal path to it is all but clear. Next best is Darvel, but my program makes it about 20dBm weaker, and the signal path to it has the tops of obstructions along the line of sight. Here's the contents of my site's info file for Black Hill (it's not laid out particularly readably because it's for programming use, but the basic info you need is there): /* Black Hill */ var NS830646 = [ { type:"Analog", bbc:"Scotland", itv:"Scottish", aergrp:"B", aerpol:"H", aerht:544, erp:500, channels:[{name:"BBC1",number:40},{name:"BBC2",number:46},{n ame:"ITV",number:43},{name:"Ch4",number:50}] }, { type:"Analog", itv:"Scottish", aergrp:"B", aerpol:"H", aerht:535, erp:500, channels:[{name:"Ch5",number:37}] }, { type:"DTTPre", itv:"STV Central", aergrp:"E/W", aerpol:"H", aerht:556, channels:[{name:"Mux 1",number:41,erp:20},{name:"Mux 2",number:47,erp:20},{name:"Mux A",number:44,erp:20},{name:"Mux B",number:51,erp:20},{name:"Mux C",number:55,erp:20},{name:"Mux D",number:65,erp:20}] }, { type:"DTTPost", itv:"STV Central", aergrp:"B", aerpol:"H", channels:[{name:"BBC A",number:46,erp:100},{name:"D3&4",number:43,erp:1 00},{name:"BBC B",number:50,erp:100},{name:"SDN",number:41,erp:10 0},{name:"Arq A",number:44,erp:100},{name:"Arq B",number:47,erp:100}] } ] On Sat, 8 Aug 2009 21:53:05 +0100, "JoeJoe" wrote: My transmitter according to the freeview website is http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Black_H...itting_station PS: and I am at G62 7LB ====================================== Please always reply to news group as the email address in this post's header does not exist. Alternatively, use one of the contact addresses at: http://www.macfh.co.uk/JavaJive/JavaJive.html http://www.macfh.co.uk/Macfarlane/Macfarlane.html |
New aerials/cables advice please
In article , Graham. says...
Use a masthead amplifier/splitter and send the power to it up the downlead from one of the TV points. Don't. They amplify all the **** as well as what you want and they fail. Get 3 decent antennas stuck up there. Maplin do some excellent wideband ones. They do a 71 element one which is extremely directional with a good high gain. Just the job for your truck then, but as the OP has not told us which Tx he is using, how can you know that a W/B aerial is appropriate? Because by definition, a wideband antenna will cover everything. -- Conor www.notebooks-r-us.co.uk I only please one person per day. Today is not your day. Tomorrow isn't looking good either. - Scott Adams |
New aerials/cables advice please
"Conor" wrote in message ... In article , Graham. says... snip Just the job for your truck then, but as the OP has not told us which Tx he is using, how can you know that a W/B aerial is appropriate? Because by definition, a wideband antenna will cover everything. Conor Badly, just like you Steve Terry |
New aerials/cables advice please
JoeJoe wrote:
Brick in and out with cavity. No chance of fishing anything... Tried that before.. Not so. I have an old free-gift tape measure, 1/4" wide. I make a loop in it, and feed the loop through the 1/2 inch hole I bore in the wall at the bottom of my cable run. Feed _lots_ of it through, and it spreads out along the cavity both ways from the hole. To make it clear, _both_ ends of the tape stay in the room. Adjourn to the loft, and bore another hold near-as-darnnit vertically above the other hole. Drop an old bath plug chain (the sort that's balls in a line) down the cavity, with string tied on to it. Feed lots of string. No, more than that :) Go down again, and pull out the tape. 9 times out of 10 I have some string in my hand. The rest I leave as an exercise for the student. Andy |
New aerials/cables advice please
"JoeJoe" wrote in message o.uk... A diagram of the current setup can be found he http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=2lmuv86&s=3 It's a nice tent. Ok, now I'll be serious. Firstly, ignore everything said by Mr Conor. His advice is worse than useless. I don't know what motivates him, but everything he says is wrong. Would anyone like to support me in this? You aerials appear to be of different groups; one Gp and two Gp A. I must say that photographs can be deceptive and I could be wrong. But if I'm right it could explain your poor reception. I suggest that you proceed as follows: Install a decent 18 element Group E aerial (not a wideband one) at the top of a 6ft x 1.25" mast, using a 9" or bigger chimney bracket. A good choice of aerial is the Blake SR18 Group E. Use a CAI approved cable that has 100 in the number. Run the cable to your nearest TV point. Connect to the receiver using a 12dB attenuator. Observe the results for a week. If they are consistently perfect on all channels buy a three way inductive screened splitter with a loss figure of 7dB (not a satellite splitter with a loss of 9dB) and fit it at that point, and run cables to the other two points. If the results are imperfect with the attenuator but better or perfect without it, buy a four output Proception indoor amplifier and fit it at that point. No matter what, you have to get new cables from the ae to point 2, and from point 2 to point 1 and from point 2 to point 3. Or you could use a different configuration, but the essential fact remains: you must run new cables. Don't waste time re-using old coax. There's the alternative of using a masthead amp/splitter, but I think you will risk having too much signal entering the amp that way. If you decide to follow my suggestions above I can give you part numbers etc. Bill |
New aerials/cables advice please
In article , Bill Wright
says... Ok, now I'll be serious. Firstly, ignore everything said by Mr Conor. His advice is worse than useless. I don't know what motivates him, but everything he says is wrong. Bull****. Shall we try "you're a **** stained old ******" for a start? -- Conor www.notebooks-r-us.co.uk I only please one person per day. Today is not your day. Tomorrow isn't looking good either. - Scott Adams |
New aerials/cables advice please
"Bill Wright" wrote in message ... typo correction: You aerials appear to be of different groups; one Gp B and two Gp A. Bill |
New aerials/cables advice please
Bill Wright wrote:
Firstly, ignore everything said by Mr Conor. His advice is worse than useless. I don't know what motivates him, but everything he says is wrong. Would anyone like to support me in this? I agree 100%. [...] There's the alternative of using a masthead amp/splitter, but I think you will risk having too much signal entering the amp that way. The Proception proMHD14R (running in Mode 1) is worthy of consideration here. Being a single-stage amplifier it's pretty bomb-proof in terms of input level (84 dBuV max i/p) and the modest gain (~4 dB to each o/p) puts it in the class of 'active splitter' rather than 'booster'. Powering is 5-12 V, so you can run the whole 4-way system from a Freeview box or IDTV that will do 5 V on the aerial socket. -- Andy |
New aerials/cables advice please
"Andy Wade" wrote in message ... Bill Wright wrote: Firstly, ignore everything said by Mr Conor. His advice is worse than useless. I don't know what motivates him, but everything he says is wrong. Would anyone like to support me in this? I agree 100%. [...] There's the alternative of using a masthead amp/splitter, but I think you will risk having too much signal entering the amp that way. The Proception proMHD14R (running in Mode 1) is worthy of consideration here. Being a single-stage amplifier it's pretty bomb-proof in terms of input level (84 dBuV max i/p) and the modest gain (~4 dB to each o/p) puts it in the class of 'active splitter' rather than 'booster'. Powering is 5-12 V, so you can run the whole 4-way system from a Freeview box or IDTV that will do 5 V on the aerial socket. I did wonder about mentioning this, but the be honest it all gets too problematical when the bloke isn't using any sort of meter. My own technique BTW is to use either a 9B or a 16dB Proception amp plus a two, three, or four way split (with DC pass). Why? Because I do very few such jobs and I carry minimum stck types. Bill |
New aerials/cables advice please
In article , Bill Wright
says... I did wonder about mentioning this, but the be honest it all gets too problematical when the bloke isn't using any sort of meter. My own technique BTW is to use either a 9B or a 16dB Proception amp plus a two, three, or four way split (with DC pass). Why? Because I like to overcomplicate things to look impressive and rip off the customer. Fixed your post for you. -- Conor www.notebooks-r-us.co.uk I only please one person per day. Today is not your day. Tomorrow isn't looking good either. - Scott Adams |
New aerials/cables advice please
"Conor" wrote in message ... In article , Bill Wright says... I did wonder about mentioning this, but the be honest it all gets too problematical when the bloke isn't using any sort of meter. My own technique BTW is to use either a 9B or a 16dB Proception amp plus a two, three, or four way split (with DC pass). Why? Because I like to overcomplicate things to look impressive and rip off the customer. Fixed your post for you. -- Conor Just for the sake of clarity I should point out that Mr Conor has edited and added to my post. Since the result of this deception is defamatory and could adversely affect my business I can't just ignore it. Bill |
New aerials/cables advice please
"Bill Wright" wrote in message ... "JoeJoe" wrote in message o.uk... A diagram of the current setup can be found he http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=2lmuv86&s=3 It's a nice tent. Ok, now I'll be serious. Firstly, ignore everything said by Mr Conor. His advice is worse than useless. I don't know what motivates him, but everything he says is wrong. Would anyone like to support me in this? You aerials appear to be of different groups; one Gp and two Gp A. I must say that photographs can be deceptive and I could be wrong. But if I'm right it could explain your poor reception. I suggest that you proceed as follows: Install a decent 18 element Group E aerial (not a wideband one) at the top of a 6ft x 1.25" mast, using a 9" or bigger chimney bracket. A good choice of aerial is the Blake SR18 Group E. Use a CAI approved cable that has 100 in the number. Run the cable to your nearest TV point. Connect to the receiver using a 12dB attenuator. Observe the results for a week. If they are consistently perfect on all channels buy a three way inductive screened splitter with a loss figure of 7dB (not a satellite splitter with a loss of 9dB) and fit it at that point, and run cables to the other two points. If the results are imperfect with the attenuator but better or perfect without it, buy a four output Proception indoor amplifier and fit it at that point. No matter what, you have to get new cables from the ae to point 2, and from point 2 to point 1 and from point 2 to point 3. Or you could use a different configuration, but the essential fact remains: you must run new cables. Don't waste time re-using old coax. There's the alternative of using a masthead amp/splitter, but I think you will risk having too much signal entering the amp that way. If you decide to follow my suggestions above I can give you part numbers etc. Bill Thanks Bill - just the sort of information that I was looking for! I will follow your advice - i.e. connect only one point, and then re-assess. I would really appreciate it if you could give me some pointers/links to part numbers. If it is not too hard, than a couple of brands for each, just in case out-of-stock etc. Would either of these cables be ok? http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/CAPF100W.html http://www.screwfix.com/prods/22591/...3YC4CSTHZOCFEY Also, I assume that the TV points on the wall need to be terminated in a coaxial socket rather than f-type on (e.g. http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Elec...sd2633/p65086). Is there anything to consider when choosing those? |
New aerials/cables advice please
On Mon, 10 Aug 2009 10:48:29 +0100, Bill Wright
wrote: "Conor" wrote in message ... In article , Bill Wright says... I did wonder about mentioning this, but the be honest it all gets too problematical when the bloke isn't using any sort of meter. My own technique BTW is to use either a 9B or a 16dB Proception amp plus a two, three, or four way split (with DC pass). Why? Because I like to overcomplicate things to look impressive and rip off the customer. Fixed your post for you. -- Conor Just for the sake of clarity I should point out that Mr Conor has edited and added to my post. Since the result of this deception is defamatory and could adversely affect my business I can't just ignore it. Conor Turton is a name I remember from quite some time ago, and not in a good way. The first post here kind of sums him up: http://groups.google.co.uk/group/uk....29512e1b1fbfcf I would guess he's been 'away' for some years for his misbehaviour and has recently been let out. In my opinion he's probably flogging knocked off and/or secondhand laptops and stuff as new to the unsuspecting punter. He'll hopefully be going 'away' again soon for his illegal, libelous and defamatory activities. He's certainly another clueless troll and worthy of killfiling. Whatever you do people, don't have anything to do with: Notebooks R Us Mr Conor Turton 36 Eastfield Road Driffield YO25 5EZ 07915 088177 +44 1377 252390 |
| All times are GMT +1. The time now is 06:17 AM. |
|
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.6.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2021, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
HomeCinemaBanter.com